(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: ABS/PVC glue-up. Rules of thumb?

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    The boonies between Mt Ranier and Mt St Helens
    Posts
    17

    Default ABS/PVC glue-up. Rules of thumb?

    Hi all,

    I've designed and fitted one leg of my new DWV for the toilet and shower. Thanks to advice from the forum I'm confident of the sizing and layout. I'm now preparing to cement things together and wonder if there's an order to gluing-up that you more exeprienced people have arrived at that. A "typical" approach?

    I know that every situation is different, and so, strictly speaking, "there are no rules of thumb." But -- when you approach the gluing-up stage of a new DWV installation is there a certain order that you tend to do things in unless/until something unusual arises?

    For instance, do you tend to build from the lowest level, say the main waste line, and build upward as much as possible? Or build the trickier sections first and then finish by cementing in the longer runs of pipe?

    I know I'll get the thing cemented and it will be fine, but I bet I'll do some chunks of it the hard way, or a harder way, than if I had already fit and cemented miles of the stuff in my career.

    So? Help, Mr. Wizard!

    Thanks,
    Charles

  2. #2
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    Posts
    25,605

    Default cementing

    You start at the beginning of the run, wherever it makes its initial connection and then proceed upstream from there. If you do a section and then work to it, you may wind up with no easy way to get it connected.

  3. #3
    Master Plumber nhmaster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    S. Maine
    Posts
    2,039

    Default

    I always hang the fitting at the furthest fixture first. It's center line establishes grade for the rest of the run.

  4. #4
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Bothell, Washington
    Posts
    14,191
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    And just to be ornery, I will say that sometimes, if I know that I will be going through a joist, I determine where the hole will be first, and then plan from there.

    When a joist is drilled, you need 2" or more at the top, and the bottom.

    When you are installing a shower p-trap, you need to know how deep it will be, or it will be bump the drywall.

    If you are connecting to a closet flange, you will need to know the method.
    Hub, spigot, tight or with some distance to work with.
    That can also be a determining factor.

    I will say, depending on circumstance, it can change.

    I do like to put the trap arms and traps last if they are in the open,
    But if drilled through studs, then I will put the horizontal first and then the fittings.

    So for me, I cut and weave depending on the defenders, trying to make it as fast to the goal line as possible.

  5. #5
    DIY Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    The boonies between Mt Ranier and Mt St Helens
    Posts
    17

    Default

    Awesome. Thanks. All of it makes sense and the picture is coming into focus.

    One friend also advised, "have lots of 22-1/2 bends on hand for jiggling things." So far I've managed to get it done without them.

    Charles

  6. #6

    Default

    you mean you just dry fitted the plastic? your not gonna bottom out your fittings

  7. #7
    DIY Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    The boonies between Mt Ranier and Mt St Helens
    Posts
    17

    Default

    Actually, I've seen that advice here before and had my antenna up. I measured the pipe lengths from the bottom of the sockets and can tolerate a little error in most of layout anyway.

    For fun, I'll measure a dry-fitted join before and after cementing and see if there's an appreciable discrepancy.

    Charles

  8. #8
    DIY Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    The boonies between Mt Ranier and Mt St Helens
    Posts
    17

    Default

    Hi all,

    Quick follow up on he dry fitting thing. It works. A super-PITA with the 3" an 4" stuff, but it measures the same before and after cementing.

    I'm cutting with a chop saw so the ends are square, and wetting to help insertion (no comments please) and of course drying and cleaning before cementing.

    It's not generally recommended, or rather, it's universally not recommended, but I needed the visual.

    Thanks for the help,

    Charles

  9. #9

    Default

    charles, the only other thing i can offer, as a DIY'er that's not fond of plumbing at all LOL, is that if you dry fit stuff, and get it all built, and bottomed out the fittings, mark them all with a sharpie or something so you can easily duplicate the orientation. (this has worked for me in the past)

    YMMV.. hope this helps
    mike

  10. #10
    DIY Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    The boonies between Mt Ranier and Mt St Helens
    Posts
    17

    Default

    Thanks Mike,

    Yep, I have been burned by neglecting that. BTW a silver sharpie *rocks* when using black ABS.

    Charles

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •