Toilet - Replaced Float, Have Leaks...

BDP · Sep 3, 2009

I've got 2 toilets in the house which both need new floats, and I've now created the same issue with both, so I figure I am doing something wrong and came here to ask the Pros.

Despite replacing both floats successfully, BOTH toilets now have a slow drip/leak under the tank on the back left as you face it, right where the new float comes out. I've tightened it pretty good, close to the fear of cracking the tank -- AM I missing something here? I didn't see any tape or plumbers putty on the old floats. Is there a trick or secret to this?

Also...Is there a tool I might be able to pick up at a big box store to better tighten that very slim, tough to grip plastic nut under the tank where the float stem goes under? I've been using a metal vice grip and it's not only ripping the heck out of those nuts but close to impossible to get on there.

Thanks.

Terry · Sep 3, 2009

Plumbers pliers work well there.

You can also sand the inside of the tank where the new fill valve drops in.

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BDP · Sep 3, 2009

Thanks Terry. I was at the local big boxes looking for plumbing specific tools but couldn't find anything like that. I'll just ask for plumber's pliers when I go in there tomorrow. Maybe I just need to get that thing tighter.

BDP · Sep 7, 2009

Terry (or anyone)...

In the end I decided it was time for a new toilet, went with the Cadet 3 American Standard. Good reviews and all. Tank's not overly tight on the bowl but I see this is a common problem (I cracked a bowl once putting the tank on too tight so I'm more careful now).

HOWEVER...The frickin thing, NEW works and all (inside and out) STILL has a slow drip under the tank where the water is coming in! I got under there with a vice grips around that thing and have tightened it so far I can hear the rubber inside the tank rubbing. What the heck else can I do? This is the same problem I had with the OLD toilet so it's quite frustrating. The tank was already assembled so it's together properly. It's a very slow drip but still enough that something has to be done. Anyone have ANY suggestions?

BTW the drip leak is definitely up at the tank nut itself, not at the join from the wall line. I verified.

So frustrated!

Ian Gills · Sep 8, 2009

Are you sure your tanks are not sweating?

hj · Sep 8, 2009

tank

About the only way that connection can leak through the tank is if you put the rubber washer for the fill valve on the outside of the tank at the nut, rather than inside under the valve. Are you sure the leak is not from the supply line/tube itself. That would be one reason the leak does not stop no matter what you do to the tank.

BDP · Sep 8, 2009

I hope I wouldn't be that silly to put the rubber washer outside.

On closer inspection it DOES look like it's coming from the join, not from the tank, so that's good - I tightened that by hand REALLY tight there but still got a VERY slow drip, do you guys use teflon tape or a vice grip to really tighten that connection up or something typically? It's on there REALLY good. And I bought a brand new braided cable too so I didn't have the mess with the solid metal pipe anymore.

Ian Gills · Sep 8, 2009

Is there a washer inside the supply line where it screws on? If not, that is your problem.

Terry · Sep 8, 2009

A new flex supply will have seals on both ends.

No Teflon tape can be used.

With a flex supply, I like to tighten the small end at the shutoff first,
The then hand tighten the top where it fits to the fill valve.

If you are using a solid riser for the supply, then the directions reverse.
The top nut is tightened first, and then the lower nut at the shutoff.
The nut and ferrule should be new.

By the way, the Cadet 3 is a handyman special, not a plumbers choice.

Ian Gills · Sep 8, 2009

Yes, it is very special.

I like my Cadet 3.

BDP · Sep 8, 2009

Thanks Terry.

I'll have to disconnect and just try it again. I assumed that the line already had what it needed inside as far as a washer but I will double check when I disconnect.

I'll be sure and disconnect and re-tighten the fill valve point last. The leak is definitely at that connection and not below at the shutoff.

As for the Cadet 3, were I building a new house I'd likely have done different, but I only plan to be here a few more years, so just enough to get by.

BDP · Sep 8, 2009

Any other suggestions? I tightened as far as I humanly could by hand (pretty tight) and I still have a slow leak at the join of the fill valve. It's a brand new valve AND a brand new connector cable.

The leak is really slow, like maybe a tablespoon of water per hour. But still, obviously, not acceptable. I've totally taken the line out and reconnected it a few times and just can't seem to get this sucker dry. Any ideas?

Terry · Sep 10, 2009

Are you sure you didn't "cross thread" the connection?

When you thread them on, the nut should spin up easily.

Cass · Sep 10, 2009

I would remove the fill valve and supply line and inspect both of them very closely and inspect the tank for roughness or cracks...

Are the new fill valves Fluidmasters and are the supply lines braided stainless...

Sometimes there is a residue left from the old rubber gasget that has to be lightly sanded off before the new fill valve is installed...

The new fill valve must be centered right and never forced into position while tightning...

BDP · Sep 12, 2009

I just went ahead and got a whole new supply line, braided steel this time instead of the plastic line. Worked tons better on the first try, hand tight, no leaks.

I just want to take a minute to say thanks to everyone in this forum, you are really a patient and helpful bunch and that's pretty rare. So thank you so much for the time, attention, and assistance.

Brad

Terry · Sep 12, 2009

I just want to take a minute to say thanks to everyone in this forum, you are really a patient and helpful bunch and that's pretty rare. So thank you so much for the time, attention, and assistance.

Brad

Thanks Brad,

For anyone else out there,

Anytime you replace a toilet or faucet, always replace the supply lines.

And if you remove a water heater flex for any reason, replace it.

We always do our installs with "new parts" no matter what the homeowner says.

Toilet - Replaced Float, Have Leaks...

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