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Thread: Problem with Laundry Drain. Photos Included.

  1. #1
    DIY Member Henry G's Avatar
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    Default Problem with Laundry Drain. Photos Included.

    First off please excuse my lack of knowledge in regards to plumbing. I've done small jobs here and there, and have helped friends in the past, but I don't claim to know a lot about plumbing.

    Long story short... I had some foundation work done to the house. I was expecting problems to arise because of this. The doors needs to be rehung, and small cracks appeared in the plastic. No problem.

    Basically what looked to be a small leak under the house, is a much bigger problem. The drain for the washer had a small leak on a fitting, but had a much larger problem where it meets up with the main drain of the house.

    I also noticed the whole plumbing job on the washer is wrong so it will need to be completely redone. There is no trap, vent, etc.

    Here is the pipe after I cut it in half. I was amazed at the buildup inside. Is this caused by no vent, or maybe the wrong angle of the drain?


    Where this galvanized pipe (1' 1/2"?) meets the old iron drain. As you can see the problem doesn't get any better. When I checked this area the galvanized pipe could move around inside in the iron pipe.






    A few questions:

    1) I'm planning to redo all the lines for the washer with PVC. How do I properly connect PVC with the iron drain? The supply lines will stay galvanized.

    2) Can the trap for the drain be under the house, or should it be in the wall cavity?

    3) What should the angle of the drain pipe be for maximum efficiency? I'm wondering if this may not have had a good enough angle. If not what would cause this amount of buildup? Could the lack of a vent have caused this?

    Any help would be appreciated.

  2. #2
    DIY Member Henry G's Avatar
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    The rest of that part of the drain system.


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    Master Plumber-Gas Fitter shacko's Avatar
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    Default Drain Problem

    You have a major problem on your hands, all that cast iron that I can see should be replaced; whoever put it in should be rolling over is his grave!

    The lines are kinked and traped, no wonder they didn't drain properly and allowed that mess to build up.

    Cut the cast until you get to a straight piece, then you can connect pvc with Fernco or Mission couplings, keep in mind all of that pipe needs to be replaced, water lines also if they are galv.

    The wash machine trap has to be near the washer, you can't put it below the floor, it also needs a 18-30in. stand pipe out of the trap, plus a vent, have fun,

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    I sell Real Estate can I interest you in a new house?

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    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    The p-trap needs to be on the same floor as the washer, not below the floor.



    Below the hub you can see the lead we pulled out,
    in the hub is the new 2" pipe with Fernco insert.

    You also have 2" hubs.

    Many times when I pull out old pipe, it looks like that.
    1/4" per foot grade or 2% is what we use.


    This one fits inside a hub, and the pipe is pushed inside.
    I taper the end of the pipe, and lube it with liquid soap.
    Last edited by Terry; 09-24-2009 at 04:38 PM.

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    DIY Member Henry G's Avatar
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    Wow, this forum is awesome. I didn't expect any replies for at least a week!

    Yeah I figured I would need to fix this nightmare situation. The problem is I can only cut so much unless I want to also redo the drain to the sink. You can't see it from this picture but there is also a drain line behind it that runs to the sink.

    I plan to do it all correctly but at the moment I need to be able to use the washing machine. I figured that I would correct all the problems in the laundry room, and down to the drain for now. Then tackle the rest.

    I'll look into the Fernco couplings.

    Quote Originally Posted by shacko View Post
    You have a major problem on your hands, all that cast iron that I can see should be replaced; whoever put it in should be rolling over is his grave!

    The lines are kinked and traped, no wonder they didn't drain properly and allowed that mess to build up.

    Cut the cast until you get to a straight piece, then you can connect pvc with Fernco or Mission couplings, keep in mind all of that pipe needs to be replaced, water lines also if they are galv.

    The wash machine trap has to be near the washer, you can't put it below the floor, it also needs a 18-30in. stand pipe out of the trap, plus a vent, have fun,

  7. #7
    DIY Member Henry G's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cookie View Post
    I sell Real Estate can I interest you in a new house?
    We'll see how this turns out. I may be giving you a call.

  8. #8
    DIY Member Henry G's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terry View Post

    The p-trap needs to be on the same floor as the washer, not below the floor.


    Below the hub you can see the lead we pulled out,
    in the hub is the new 2" pipe with Fernco insert.

    You also have 2" hubs.

    Many times when I pull out old pipe, it looks like that.
    1/4" per foot grade or 2% is what we use.
    1. A picture is worth a thousand words! I will follow this example in the photo.


    2. I was reading another thread in this forum and I think I'll try and get these fernco inserts.

    "Fernco donut part numbers for 2" plastic DWV pipe into 2" cast iron hub:
    P22U-205: for service duty cast iron (marked "SV")
    P22UX-205: for extra heavy cast iron (marked "XH")"

    I need to crawl back under the house to check which cast iron I have. Should this marking be easy to find?

    3. I need to install a vent pipe. Should this always be vented through the roof, or are you able to vent it under the eve?

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    Plumbing Designer FloridaOrange's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henry G View Post
    3. I need to install a vent pipe. Should this always be vented through the roof, or are you able to vent it under the eve?
    What state are you in? In FL you can sidewall vent but must remain 10' above grade and not under a soffitted eave or an operable window. There may be more restrictions.
    Matt
    Semi-professional plumbing designer
    Enjoying life in SW Florida

  10. #10
    DIY Member Henry G's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FloridaOrange View Post
    What state are you in? In FL you can sidewall vent but must remain 10' above grade and not under a soffitted eave or an operable window. There may be more restrictions.
    I'm in WA state. I see a lot of people on the board are also from WA, maybe one of them knows for sure. I'll just run it through the roof if I have to.

  11. #11
    DIY Member Henry G's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jakeru View Post
    Look for the "SV" letters cast into the hub, in raised letters on one of the sides. I believe "SV" is more common than "XH". H0me dep0t carries the P22U-205 Fernco doughnut (for the "SV" cast hub.)

    Also, is that silicone sealant coming out of a couple of your other hubs? Might want to peel that back and see what's underneath. If they are lead-oakum like your other joints, but just a little loose, it would be good to re-caulk them. (By pounding around the lead using a caulking iron.)
    Hopefully I have the "SV" pipe so I'm not trying to track down the correct coupling.

    I'm debating whether to add the Fernco to the cat iron end in the photo, or maybe try to remove it and use the one that appears to have some of the caulking coming out. I plan to replace it all but at this point I need to get it up and running. I still need to remodel the bathroom so I'll replace this part of the system at that time.

    How difficult is it to remove that small portion of the cast iron? I would imagine it is not going to come off easily.

  12. #12
    DIY Member Henry G's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jakeru View Post
    I live in WA state too, and we go by UPC code. UPC doesn't allow sidewall vent terminations, like the IRC (used in many other states) does allow.
    Then it looks like I'll just route it through the roof. Thanks!

  13. #13
    DIY Member Henry G's Avatar
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    So Home Depot wasn't much help (as usual).

    One person suggested that using an insert is a bad idea, The other had never heard of fernco making something like this and I couldn't find it myself. Maybe my store doesn't carry it.

    Anyway, he suggest I should use this:



    Seems like it would work but wouldn't this void it make become a problem?

  14. #14
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default Fernco

    That coupling is NOT designed to fit OVER a cast iron hub. Using it would be a *********/handyman procedure. AND since it is merely a rubber coupling it is not supposed to be used INSIDE a house ANYWHERE.

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    DIY Member Henry G's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hj View Post
    That coupling is NOT designed to fit OVER a cast iron hub. Using it would be a *********/handyman procedure. AND since it is merely a rubber coupling it is not supposed to be used INSIDE a house ANYWHERE.
    That's how I felt about it. I've had more than one person try to tell me this is how you could connect the drain situation I have, but it just feels like putting a band aid on it.

    I did find a company in town that carries the fernco insert so hopefully this works out.

    Thanks

    Last edited by Terry; 09-24-2009 at 04:40 PM.

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