For the about the same installed price as a tankless you can kill several birds with one stone and reconfigure the heating zones to run of a "reverse-indirect" tank like the TurboMax, or ErgoMax, or Everhot EA series, which are essentially a heating-system buffer tanks with internal heat exchangers for the domestic hot water. By slaving the boiler to serve the tank-only and letting the zones sip off the tank as-needed, getting the DHW through the internal heat exchanger in the tank it minimizes the number boiler firings, and guarantees a minimum burn length for the boiler, increasing it's operational efficiency by double-digit percentages(!).
Configured this way it basically CAN'T short cycle, since at a minimum it needs to heat up the mass of the water in the tank by the hysteresis designed into the tank's aquastat (usually 8-12 degrees F). This is several times the mass of the water in the boiler itself.
Another advantage to this approach is that you can run the baseboard temps at almost arbitrarily low temperature (whatever you set the tank temp to), which lowers the distribution losses in the heating system (usually good for ~3% fuel savings for every 10F you can drop the temp). If you've tightened up & insulated the place since the heating system was first installed, it could be that you'll could drop the baseboard temps from 170-180F to 140-150F without getting cold, providing a more even temperature & greater comfort at lower operating cost.
Even if the boiler craps out, you want to change fuels etc. the tank will last for decades (at much lower maintenance than a tankless), and it's not-sensitive to heating source- any boiler will do, and efficiency benefit will be similar with gas or propane fired boilers as well. They're not cheap, but it'll save wear & tear on the boiler with better annual efficiency than a tankless + boiler, or a boiler + priority-zoned indirect.