curbless shower

[johnfrwhipple]

Well finally back from NYC, totally enjoy that city. Now back to this bathroom reno. As I have not done one of these linear drains before, I've having a hard time figuring out the amount of space I need from the lowered floor to the top of the linear drain. None of the websites that I've looked at show that dimension. They do show some support below the drain but usually it is something supplied but no dimension on it. Can anyone give me some idea on thicknesses of items, so that I can best determine how and if I can make this work? I know there is paper (1/16"), wire mesh (1/8"), mortar#1 (??"), membrane (40 mil), mortar#2 (??"), thinset (1/8"), tile (1/4"). I assume mortar #1 and mortar#2 has a minimum thickness based on drain requirements but have no idea what that would be. Just looking for some guidance.

As an option, would less space be needed if I went with a standard center drain in shower rather than the linear drain?

We've got most of the fixtures and tub finalized so this is the last portion before we select tile.

Freddie these thickness calculations are so tricky and depend on so many factors. Maybe you should ring me today and I can cover more ground over the phone. 604-506-6792

We passed our flood test after nearly four days of sitting there. The water level did not drop a hair.

JW

[Freddie]

Sorry John, Just getting back to it now. Thanks for the offer. I may call you this week if needed. Looks like if I remove the floor in the shower and lower it down to being flush with the joists and double up on the 5/8" thickness then I'll have a good solid floor to build up on. Looks like Schluter linear drain is about 1 1/8" to top of drain / kerdi weatherproofing point meaning I would start tiling from that height above the joist top.

If I add 3/8" plywood on top of the 5/8" osb that is currently on the rest of the floor then floor heating and Ditra then I should be about 1 3/8" above top of floor joists when I start to tile in the bathroom. So with about a 1' of slope from bathroom floor to drain then I'd make up the 1/4" difference in height.

Does this seem to make sense to you? I assume all other linear drains are similar in dimension and mud requirements.



Finished floor height would then be 1.75" above joists. When I redo bedroom floor to hardwood then it would be about 1.5" about floor joists. That should be good for mating with new bathroom floor easily.

[johnfrwhipple]

You can not bend tile. Not much anyway. And certainly not in a twisting motion.

I have decided to only sell the ACO linear drains going forward. I will not be selling anymore drains from Quick Drain USA. I made a promise to a client and am a man of my word. If my client gets taken care of I might reconsider my stand but until such time I am going to sell and promote only the linear drains from ACO.

I have installed loads of the Quick Drain USA product.

Cement Slabs.
Basements.
I-joists.
Timber framing.
Hybrid.
Side Outlet.
Over heating.

I have all these installations on file. If you want to see how I install the Proline you need to sign up for my Private Ideabooks and pictures. You can find out how on my blog site. Top right corner.

How I do my installs and how the manufactures recommend installs - are two different things. My way is better. My way is stronger. My way meets deflection criteria for a subfloor. I get paid to install drains and will be screwed if they leak. They get paid to sell drains. I'm an installer. They are a manufacture. It's different.

Your way (outlined above) might not work out so well. You need to follow TTMAC guidelines. Can you tell me where in the TTMAC guidelines that it says you can cut a slot out of your subfloor and drop a drain in??? With or without a little steel clip. The framing is not hard to beef up. It is possible to sneak a 2"x4" under the cut out and have the P-Trap roll around it.

My Ideabooks cover

firestopping
tile layout
custom cutting
custom sizing of spacers
cleaning
what to look out for

and on and on.

I'll also tell you what products I used.

What I love about the ACO drain is that it installs over any type of waterproofing system (ANSI 118.10) and a clamping drain.

I build my showers most times like a divot style. This is not covered in any online install page.

Good Luck - make sure you flood test your new shower.

JW