Archway, Help please...I'm out of ideas

Dgold · Aug 25, 2009

Lakee911 said:
I vote for no chair rail under the archway...

I think that just lowering the ceiling a bit w/ the arch going to the existing walls may provide enough seperation....especially with crown moulding and different paint colors.

Agreed. A lowered cieling (via an arch or straight), combined with crown molding for each room would be enough.

As for the chair rail, it can continue from one room to the next, but is typically reserved for dining rooms and kitchens, where people are more likely to be sitting on chairs near the wall (hence the name). Of course these days, people put chair rail all over the place, but by keeping it exclusive to the dining room creates another element contrasting the two rooms.

Dgold · Aug 25, 2009

v1rtu0s1ty said:
Oh, I have never seen something wall separated by just paint. How would I make the separation if I will be putting a chair rail?

Blue painters tape. Make sure you apply it up/down the wall straight and plumb. The wall is literally split from one color to the other. My mother's house has it where her dining room transitions to her living room. Never would have thought to do it, but to my surprise, it worked well and it doesn't look weird at all.

Sponsor · 2022-01-29T12:20:58-0800

V1rtu0s1ty · Aug 26, 2009

I've been looking for archway design and found one without pillars. Here is an archway without pillars. I think something is missing if there is no pillar.

drbax · Aug 26, 2009

I like the pillar idea. I think without the pillar it looks like crap. If you aren't planning on selling who cares what other people think make your house the way you want it. Do what the wife wants you have to live with her.

I am by no means a DIYer or a contractor or anything like that...but why couldn't you just extend the air return the two to four inches through the pillar?

As a side note...you say this is the pillar I am copying and then as I scrolled down the screen I saw that girls butt in the middle of the screen and the guy is pointing at her butt.....

... just funny.

db

Dgold · Aug 27, 2009

Okay, So if you want the register in the piller, than the pillar needs to fully cover the width of the existing ductwork. You can simply make another few inches of ductwork out of wood, and then put a grill on the pillar itself.

Is there any rule that says the duct has to be made from metal? Seems to me, you just need to provide a way for the air to get into the room it was intended for.

V1rtu0s1ty · Aug 27, 2009

As a side note...you say this is the pillar I am copying and then as I scrolled down the screen I saw that girls butt in the middle of the screen and the guy is pointing at her butt..... ... just funny.

That's what I noticed too! Hahaha!!!

Okay, So if you want the register in the piller, than the pillar needs to fully cover the width of the existing ductwork. You can simply make another few inches of ductwork out of wood, and then put a grill on the pillar itself.

That's a great idea about making the extension of out wood. That's what delayed this whole project. I can't find a product that would fit in there. LOL.

Thanks folks! I told it to my wife and she told me to buy all the stuff I need!!!

I'll keep everyone posted.

FloridaOrange · Aug 27, 2009

I personally wouldn't run the duct through the pillar. That's alot of work to make something look like a hack job.

Just my opinion.....

V1rtu0s1ty · Aug 27, 2009

Nope, I will reroute it close to the other vent on the left or maybe at the hallway.

V1rtu0s1ty · Oct 6, 2009

Finally, I've started with the archway project 4 or 5 days ago. I've completed the arch but I have not attached it yet to the ceiling. I'm working on now with the ceiling lights and electrical. I need more eyes regarding the position of ceiling lights.

The picture below shows the recessed lights in the center are centered against the ceiling fan equally. The outer recessed lights distance to the center recessed lights is shorter. In the drawing, it looks nice. However, when I stand at the kitchen and look at it, I think something is not right. Oh, I put a 6" diameter cardboard and I sticked it in to the ceiling.

Here is the other drawing where the middle recessed lights aren't centered against the ceiling fan. If you noticed, the left middle recessed lights are closer to the ceiling fan. In the drawing, it doesn't look right since it's not equal. However, when I stand at the kitchen, it looks better.

But sitting at the sofa and looking at the lights, you will notice the difference in the distance between the 2 middle recessed lights from the ceiling fan.

Which should I use?

Cookie · Oct 6, 2009

I love the recessed lights by the fireplace, and the ceiling fan, does this have a light also? My room is 16x26 and has 2 less lights. I like the second one.

V1rtu0s1ty · Oct 6, 2009

All those ceiling lights you see have lights. I also like the second one. So I guess, I should go with the second one then. I'm also thinking of adding another light near the fireplace. So instead of 2 that you see right now, there will be 3. I'm also going to move the 3 lights a little more closer to the fireplace maybe 3-4 inches closer.

EDIT:
Oh, yes, the ceiling fan also has lights but not that strong.

The switch of ceiling fan, the fireplace recessed lights and the other 6 recessed lights will be separate.

Cookie · Oct 6, 2009

I wish I had those near the fireplace, those are the 2 I am missing. I would love to have them even in the wall, sconces. I think I would stay with the 2 near the fireplace, how long is the fireplace?

V1rtu0s1ty · Oct 6, 2009

Cookie said:
I wish I had those near the fireplace, those are the 2 I am missing. I would love to have them even in the wall, sconces. I think I would stay with the 2 near the fireplace, how long is the fireplace?

My mantle is 7' wide.

The reason I want 3 lights is because of the fireplace I found the other day.

Jadnashua · Oct 6, 2009

The manufacturer's website will likely have charts that show beam spread at various ceiling heights with the available bulbs. Unless you are looking for lighting over say a chair, if you want even illumination all over the room, make sure your lamp density and positions have appropriate overlap.

V1rtu0s1ty · Oct 6, 2009

jadnashua said:
The manufacturer's website will likely have charts that show beam spread at various ceiling heights with the available bulbs. Unless you are looking for lighting over say a chair, if you want even illumination all over the room, make sure your lamp density and positions have appropriate overlap.

Yep, I did some research about the overlap and I got that covered. Most documents I've found says that distance between recessed lights should be between 6-8 ft.

V1rtu0s1ty · Oct 6, 2009

Cookie said:
That is good, but I would still get one, a good thing to have. You got to post pictures when all done, it really looks good. I would be so proud. Have a nice night.

Thanks!

Yep, I will post the final picture.

Have a great evening as well!!!

V1rtu0s1ty · Oct 8, 2009

Quick question folks. Does strobe effect only happen on the recessed lights that are near the fan of a ceiling fan?

Lakee911 · Oct 9, 2009

Lookin' good!

You may want to adjust the height of those electrical boxes so that your switch plates line up exactly when you're done. Might be easiest to replace the one on the right with the same type as on the left, then you could screw a scrap of 2x4 to the bottom so it holds them perfectly level and in line w/ eachother.

Also, don't forget to put conduit or romex with a suitable cable clamp if you route wire between the two boxes.

Jason

Jadnashua · Oct 9, 2009

If you choose to use CFL bulbs or tubular fluorescents rather than an incandescent, you can get strobe effects on any moving thing...this includes video screens, depending on their refresh rate. Incandescents' output still varies, but the time constant is fairly long as the filament takes awhile to cool off as the a/c input crosses the zero point. A florescent shuts off.

V1rtu0s1ty · Oct 9, 2009

Lakee911 said:
Lookin' good!

You may want to adjust the height of those electrical boxes so that your switch plates line up exactly when you're done. Might be easiest to replace the one on the right with the same type as on the left, then you could screw a scrap of 2x4 to the bottom so it holds them perfectly level and in line w/ eachother.

Also, don't forget to put conduit or romex with a suitable cable clamp if you route wire between the two boxes.

Jason

I've removed the old box.

Thanks.

Archway, Help please...I'm out of ideas

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