master bath plumbing

**mwalsh3** · 08-10-2009, 06:11 PM

I'm in the process of finishing off a master bath (that was gutted 4 yrs ago). The old (~50 yrs) rough-in for toilet and sink are still in place and I'm not changing the locations. The copper pipes got pretty banged up in the demo, however, and the shutoff valves are very old.

So my first questions are what are the proper rough-ins for a toilet and bathroom sink?

Thanks,
Mike Walsh

**jadnashua** · 08-10-2009, 07:20 PM

The drain for a toilet is best located at 12" from the finished wall to the center of the drain. The water supply depends on the toilet you select...no one location will fit all. The goal is to have it somewhat hidden, but still accessible. This is often somewhere between 5-8" left of center-line, but you really need to select the toilet first.

Sink supply lines again are dependent on the sink you select. It gets much more restrictive if you select something like a wall-mount sink or a pedestal. Otherwise, especially if it is under a vanity, it doesn't matter too much. Don't want it too high, and if it is too low, you'd need extensions for many faucets that have attached supply hoses.

So, select the fixtures first, then review their installation instructions. Otherwise, it's a crap shoot, you might get it to fit and look right, and you might not!

**mwalsh3** · 08-11-2009, 09:30 AM

Thanks.

We're still trying to decide on fixtures, but will likely end up with a Toto toilet and 36" vanity with separate hot/cold handle faucet.

The existing toilet supply is 1/2" copper into a T. 90 degrees from the inlet is threaded for a chrome pipe (which has the shut-off at its other end) and 180 deg has a 6" piece of copper that is capped.

The hot and cold supplies for the sink are similar, except that the T is replaced with an elbow.

Is this basically what I should end up with for the new fixtures?

Mike Walsh

**mwalsh3** · 08-26-2009, 04:45 PM

here's what I have left for a toilet flange and the connection into the main waste line. i'm guessing that the flange needs to be replaced - what's the best way to go about doing this?

Thanks!

hj · 08-27-2009, 06:20 AM

That is an offset collar, and the worst kind of offset collar at that. You have to figure out WHY they used it and if it can be eliminated. If not you might be able to use a standard one with a different toilet.

**nhmaster** · 08-27-2009, 06:45 AM

Looks like the closet bend is right up against a floor joist. that would be why the offset flange.

**mwalsh3** · 08-27-2009, 09:10 AM

I'm at work right now, but from what I remember there's about 2" of space between the pipe and floor joist. Does that help me at all?

Thanks

**mwalsh3** · 12-13-2009, 09:43 AM

my plumber just installed a grohe 35016 pressure valve w/ diverter and we cannot get it to work correctly. We can get water from the diverter side (bottom) only - regardless of position of the diverter. Nothing comes out of the top side of the valve.

We have checked most all of the obvious things - hot/cold getting to the valve, no obstructions in the top side outlet etc.

Any suggestions on what else to check?

Thanks,
Mike Walsh

**shacko** · 12-13-2009, 01:21 PM

If you had a plumber install the valve get him to fix it!

**mwalsh3** · 12-13-2009, 02:07 PM

he's trying to fix it - has never seen a problem like this before with one of these valves. I'm looking for suggestions of what might be wrong

hj · 12-14-2009, 06:45 AM

There is an "open" passage between the port at the bottom and the one at the top. IF shutting off the diverter stops the flow to the bottom/spout, and it does not come out the top/shower, then it is plugged internally somehow. Or the top outlet has something closing it off. Either condition would require us to be there to do our own checking.