Wall hydrant install "hit the wall"

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tinkertrain

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I'm replacing the valve/outlet for my garden hose (wall hydrant?).
I went out to remove the screws/bolts securing the assembly to the wall and after I pulled the siding out of the way I discovered that the thing is mortared into a brick wall.:confused: (I didn't even know the siding was over a brick exterior)
Are there any methods to get the old hydrant out of this brick? I'm imagining myself out there with a chisel and hammer, and not looking forward to that.

I looked for information -online- and found this site. Someone in this forum has probably come across a situation like this b4. I'd appreciate any tips or advice that might make this "running into a brick wall" situation alittle easier.

Thanks,
AM
 

Redwood

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Look to the inside. If you have a frost proof sillcock it will extend to the interior of the brick wall where there will be a connection.
 

Gary Swart

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If it is a frost proof valve, you have to access it from inside where it connects to the supply line. It will require 2 wrenches to keep from twisting the supply line. Once disconnected, the unit must be pulled to the outside. The replacement valve goes in in reverse of removal. Obviously, there has to be a hole in the wall large enough for the hex end of the valves to slip through, but it does not have to be a huge one. Unless they cemented around the pipe, there almost has to be space to slide the valve in and out.
 

Redwood

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Sometimes the installer may have skipped a step and just sweat the frost proof hose bibb to the copper. Omitting a threaded connection which makes replacement a little more difficult.
 

Gardner

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Sometimes the installer may have skipped a step and just sweat the frost proof hose bibb to the copper.

This is what I've been doing. I sweat a length of copper onto the hydrant while everything's out. Then insert the tubing through the wall, arrange for the proper pitch and secure the hydrant to the wall. Then from inside trim the tubing to the proper length to complete the connection, inserting a valve, and sweat.

By attaching the length of tubing to the hydrant before installing, you avoid having to sweat right up by the foundation or rim joist and instead get to work in the open space between the joists. YMMV.
 
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Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

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