You've come to the right site!
RE: cost of WH replacement - I can't comment, but personally if I were in the Seattle area I'd call Terry or his son to do the job (Terry is probably too modest to suggest this himself!)
RE: anode replacement - you are in the 99th percentile of homeowners in that you know that anodes should be replaced! Very few homeowners are aware of this. The good news is that you can buy segmented replacement anodes which sort of fold up so you can install them without a lot of headroom. One source for these is at a site called waterheaterrescueDOTcom.