Hammerlane
Member
TIF Volume Air Balancer
http://www.google.com/imgres?q=tif+...tart=0&ndsp=55&ved=1t:429,r:0,s:0&tx=31&ty=27
http://www.google.com/imgres?q=tif+...tart=0&ndsp=55&ved=1t:429,r:0,s:0&tx=31&ty=27
Is there a way for a novice to measure air flow through registers at home?
- Thread starter SliderJeff
- Start date
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Hammerlane
Member
TIF Volume Air Balancer
http://www.google.com/imgres?q=tif+...tart=0&ndsp=55&ved=1t:429,r:0,s:0&tx=31&ty=27
http://www.google.com/imgres?q=tif+...tart=0&ndsp=55&ved=1t:429,r:0,s:0&tx=31&ty=27
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SliderJeff
DIY Member
Hammerlane,
Can you explain what this thing is and how it's used? The link appears to show that you can't order it anymore, regardless. Thanks.
Regards,
Jeff (the OP)
Runs with Bison
Member
Jeff, have you had any luck balancing things better in the last few years?
Looking back at this you've got a lot of cooling capacity there and that suggests one of two major possibilities (or some of both): 1. Poorly insulated/sealed rooms. 2. Oversized units that run infrequently enough that the temp. gradient is high.
What is the total square footage? Do the 2nd story bedrooms that are a problem sit over a garage or other unconditioned space? One of the issues in my home is that the master is over the garage...and the builder did not insulate between the garage and the bedroom. (Really the two spaces should have some fireproofing in between as well.)
If the unit is oversized, then the hotter rooms near the end or runs or with undersized ducts/returns will suffer the most. So if the unit ran for a few mins at a time, the air coming from these runs might only be getting down to temp for a smaller fraction of the time then other rooms. There will be less air exchange going on by redistribution between the rooms.
Since I changed out my HVAC unit (in 3-2 split level with large open area) with a two stage I've found the ends/corners of the house to be more balanced. It's still all a single zone and I run with the lower levels pinched back, but it runs mostly in low stage, better redistributing the air because it runs much longer for the same duty than the old unit did. Plus the new unit install is tighter than the old unit.
Looking back at this you've got a lot of cooling capacity there and that suggests one of two major possibilities (or some of both): 1. Poorly insulated/sealed rooms. 2. Oversized units that run infrequently enough that the temp. gradient is high.
What is the total square footage? Do the 2nd story bedrooms that are a problem sit over a garage or other unconditioned space? One of the issues in my home is that the master is over the garage...and the builder did not insulate between the garage and the bedroom. (Really the two spaces should have some fireproofing in between as well.)
If the unit is oversized, then the hotter rooms near the end or runs or with undersized ducts/returns will suffer the most. So if the unit ran for a few mins at a time, the air coming from these runs might only be getting down to temp for a smaller fraction of the time then other rooms. There will be less air exchange going on by redistribution between the rooms.
Since I changed out my HVAC unit (in 3-2 split level with large open area) with a two stage I've found the ends/corners of the house to be more balanced. It's still all a single zone and I run with the lower levels pinched back, but it runs mostly in low stage, better redistributing the air because it runs much longer for the same duty than the old unit did. Plus the new unit install is tighter than the old unit.
david t
New Member
An Inexpensive Air Flow Meter
A DC motor will operate as a DC voltage generator when its shaft is turned fast enough.
I made an inexpensive air flow meter by doing the following:
I bought an inexpensive hand-held, battery-operated personal fan from the 99 cent store.
I removed the batteries.
I removed the rubber fan (propeller) blade (because it would not spin the motor-generator fast enough.
I attached an old, larger-blade, fan propeller blade I had left over from a bathroom fan to the shaft, so the air flow would spin(turn) the DC motor-generator in the hand-held fan.
I connected a DC Voltmeter to the wires where the battery terminals had been placed.
I attached this combination to a pole and held it near the air duct outlets where the air flow seemed to be the greatest.
I measured the flow rate out of each register of interest (by measuring and writing down the DC voltage).
This is a relative measurement, not an accurate qualitative measurement. However it tells generally what the relative flow rate is coming out of each register.
(I did try to calibrate this device knowing that 60 MPH is equivalent to 88 feet per second, but I am too embarassed to tell you what happened with that experiment. Suffice it to say, the experiment was quickly terminated).
Good Luck
A DC motor will operate as a DC voltage generator when its shaft is turned fast enough.
I made an inexpensive air flow meter by doing the following:
I bought an inexpensive hand-held, battery-operated personal fan from the 99 cent store.
I removed the batteries.
I removed the rubber fan (propeller) blade (because it would not spin the motor-generator fast enough.
I attached an old, larger-blade, fan propeller blade I had left over from a bathroom fan to the shaft, so the air flow would spin(turn) the DC motor-generator in the hand-held fan.
I connected a DC Voltmeter to the wires where the battery terminals had been placed.
I attached this combination to a pole and held it near the air duct outlets where the air flow seemed to be the greatest.
I measured the flow rate out of each register of interest (by measuring and writing down the DC voltage).
This is a relative measurement, not an accurate qualitative measurement. However it tells generally what the relative flow rate is coming out of each register.
(I did try to calibrate this device knowing that 60 MPH is equivalent to 88 feet per second, but I am too embarassed to tell you what happened with that experiment. Suffice it to say, the experiment was quickly terminated).
Good Luck
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