Anyone have any sealer tricks....

I installed a new PVC 4x3 closet bend on to a cast iron pipe. I cut the hub off a sanitary bend on it's side as that is what was installed 50 years ago. The pipe curves very quickly behind where the hub was so there is very little area to work with. I dressed it up with a die grinder and cleaned the C.I. pipe well. The pipe is smaller on the OD than the 4" pvc so a Mission type clamp distorts some. I cut the metal band to seperate the two areas and allow the metal to form around the rubber. I had it on for hours and then noticed a slight leak after I flushed some water thru the pipe. I snugged the clamps up a little more and the leak appears to have stopped....but I don't trust it! Short of tearing out a lot of C.I. I have no other options for this. Is there and sealer that might be used between the C.I. and the rubber to seal it better. I tried Blue Block and it made more of a mess so I cleaned it all off and installed it dry.....I have access from above and below and there is no emergency here as the home is vacant right now......The horizontal run is 5 feet long and has 2 toilets and two sinks and tubs going into it. The biggest issue is it has improper pitch and waste water is collecting in the bottom of the closet bend that I am working on. That is the last fixture on the run and furthest away from the vertical stack.....about 5 feet.... It has always been this way and there has never been any problems with drainage or toilets flushing.....I discovered it after removing some sheetrock to fix the place up.......Even if I cut out the horizontal run...I would still have to use a banded rubber clamp on the vertical section and I would have the sme poor fit. The C.I. od is smaller than the PVC a little ....any tips would be appreciated....

tee

When you cut the hub off the tee, you DESTROYED the fitting. There is no way you are going to make any proper connection to that stub you created. You went beyond your level of incompetence when you cut it off, and now you have to replace the tee, or Mickey Mouse some patchwork connection which may not last as long as you intend to live in the house.

If the cast is smaller then the plastic, try a copper to plastic no-hub coupling.

The copper side will be for 4-1/8" OD and the plastic side will be for 4-3/8"

And in a pinch, Silicone.

For the next reader, don't cut off the hub.

Pouring a Lead Joint

hj said:

When you cut the hub off the tee, you DESTROYED the fitting. There is no way you are going to make any proper connection to that stub you created. You went beyond your level of incompetence when you cut it off, and now you have to replace the tee, or Mickey Mouse some patchwork connection which may not last as long as you intend to live in the house.

Click to expand...

Actually going beyond my level of incompetence hadn't occured to me as what I had done. Its seems to be a routine repair to cut the hub off and use a no hub banded connector. Where would I have found a plumber that could repair a brass ferule that was leaded into the cast iron and a very short lead bend up to the toilet? The lead bend at the flange was totally destroyed and unrepairable......I will try to aquire the part that Terry has mentioned to see if it might fit better. The tee has a much straighter section beyond the next hub...all I need is a no hub connector that will fit better..... It is not leaking and has been good for 24 hours or more.....Pouring a new lead joint would have been pretty unlikely from the average plumbers I run into !!!! I was comitted to replacing the entire horizontal branch if this did not work. Thanks.....




Update.....Thanks to Terry's info....I was able to order online 2 CK-44 Mission band clamps.....I have a piece of the 4' Cast iron that I cut out from somewhere else. I will check the fit on that piece. If it fits better I will remove the band clamp I have and see how the new one fits....if it still does not fit well I will cut the hub off the straight section of the santee....there is a much better area there to attach a no hub that fits well. I can use a new PVC 4" "street santee" to get the fit up hopefully. I would never cover it up if I had no confidence in it and I won't use any silicone...LOL



and as for my incompetence....I replaced all the water supply lines to the second floor in the last few days that a PLUMBER installed back around 1955....This person thought running the cold water supply line directly next to the outside wall was a good idea. He also thought pipes could run all over themselves with no clamps or insulation. Last winter I had a cold water line start to freeze up, hence the project to move the lines further into the wall away from the cold outer wall.....My 61 year old knees are hurting form all the kneeling and stair climbing and ladder climbing..... The only leak I had was a Made in China.....3/8ths pipe plug that leaked. If you exceed your level of incompetence what is that officially called......It must have a letter name like ADD or something....or is it it just plain something like Stupid.....or DimWit or like Fred Sanford said....DUMMEY.....LOL

If you had removed the brass ferrule from the hub, you could have used a Fernco donut, and made the connection. The size of the pipe on the outside of the fitting is not fixed like a typical pipe, only the inside of the hub (and even then, it isn't tightly controlled). CI is designed for leaded joints which allow a lot of clearance. Most pipe (not a fitting!) is fairly consistent, but really old stuff may not match up with new stuff.

Yes Jim thankyou for that explanation and reply. I did start to try to do exactly that and could see the layers of material. The lead was inside the brass. I felt like that would not work since the turn was so short and the progress I was making getting everything out was not going well. The floor joists are 2x8 and that lead bend turned immediately up from the C.I. hub. I cut the hub off as close to the back of the hub as possible as I could see there was very little room to make the connection. I used a 4x3 closet bend and a bushing and it fit the space available. It is dry for a 3rd day. I added another support beam directly under it and it cannot move. Once the floor is redone...the flange will also hold it. When I receive the new Mission clamps and see how they fit my C.I. I will decide what comes next......Cast iron is meant to last a lifetime + from the looks of what I have and it's too bad issues like the toilet bend and flange cause these difficult problems to resolve.

pipe

Its seems to be a routine repair to cut the hub off and use a no hub banded connector. Where would I have found a plumber that could repair a brass ferule that was leaded into the cast iron

I wouldn't call it a routing repair to cut the hub off of a fitting, since I have NEVER seen or heard of it being done. You cut the hub off lengths of pipe, because they have enough straight pipe behind them to attach the new one to it. Fittings NEVER have ANY straight pipe behind their hubs, and sometimes no pipe at all, so cutting the hub off is usually not even a consideration. And ANY good, or even so-so, plumber should have been able to remove the wiping ferrule and insert a new piece of cast iron or plastic pipe. But, at this stage, if you called me, I would not even try to work with what you have. If I did and it leaked, you would expect me to make it right as a "call back", and making it right could be a very expensive proposition. Well, I guess the words "could be" should be removed because it WILL BE a very expensive situation. Good luck with a patch of some kind.

This Repair, toilet install is now 8 years old and is leak free........Toto Vespin.....works great.

Fernco from PVC to CI.....

The Copper to PVC Fernco fit perfectly.....

I wet tested it for a good amount of time before I installed the ceiling

Next time I will call a plumber though as experience counts.....