Moving Basement Shower Drain

**GoldMaple** · 08-28-2009, 08:49 PM

Hey guys...Thanks for compliments, put a smile on my face

I've made a few strides since I last posted. Before I filled the hole with the sand and gravel I drilled nine 1/2 inch diameter holes, 3 inches deep into the sides of the concrete for the rebar. This can be difficult. The hammer drill went throught the concrete with relative ease but when it hit a rock it slowed dramatically. Very slow going through the rocks, and there were many. After a while I started inserting a punch in the hole and whacking it with my hand sledge. I think this cracked the rocks because I was able to proceed again, at least till I hit another rock. Anyway, it took several hours just to drill 9 holes......

Once done I cut the rebars with my little 5 inch grinder and then inserted them in the holes. I then placed the vapour barrier and also put a 4 inch piece of ABS around the drain. This is a trick I learned from CX on the John Bridge site. I'm doing a Kerdi Drain so one needs to leave room for the drain to get below the concrete. About an hour after I poured the concrete I carved into the concrete with a brick laying trowel just around the drain while the ABS was still in embedded. (See pics) I then pulled the ABS out. I know the Kerdi Drain will fit nicely in the whole and when I build my dry pack mortar bed I'll fill in under the drain.

Once all this was done I covered the wet concrete with some poly to keep the moisture in. Best not to rush the drying so you avoid cracks. The poly was on for about 5 days. I also used a crack resitant concrete that had fibres mixed in. For the amount of concrete I used the price was meaningless.

I mixed all the cement in a 35 litre plastic storage bin. Not the greatest but it fit in the bathroom and it did work. Mixing was hard work but who said this was going to be easy? I cleaned it out in my backyard and I could use for storage because I cleaned it before the cement dried. Cement is interesting. I so wanted to add more water while mixing (I didn't) because it seemed so dry. However, once in the hole it magically had enough water.......

Now I can move on to other things.......

**iminaquagmire** · 08-31-2009, 02:41 PM

Looks good. I'd suggest a diamond cup grinder to scarify the concrete and get all that old adhesive up next.

**GoldMaple** · 08-31-2009, 06:16 PM

Yes, the glue....I've already had one round with the glue. I spent quite a few miserable hours scraping it off the entire bathroom floor with a 4 inch Richard's scraper. I went through quite a few blades and what is left now is the glue stain. There are no more pieces to scrape off. The only way to get the stain off would be to scarify, as you have suggested. I was hoping to avoid this given the effort I have already put in. Scraping that glue off is no fun. I know that there are thinsets that are advertised to be used over cutback. Has anyone used any of them and do they work?

**GoldMaple** · 09-06-2009, 12:17 PM

I've started plumbing in my bathroom. As it turns out I have to replace all of it because what was behind the walls was kind of a joke!

Anyway, I've bought a 1700 series Delta valve and a hand held shower on a slide rail. I've decided to place the shower elbow below the valve and since the shower is only going to have the one fixture I'm going to plug one of the valve outlets. Since the shower elbow is below the valve I was considering plugging the top valve, which is normally used for the shower, and using the tub outlet for the shower elbow. So, is this cool? The tub outlet is larger so would that mean there will be more pressure at my shower head?

Also, why does the valve have the black plastic bracket around it? Does it serve any purpose?

**John Bridge** · 09-07-2009, 06:34 AM

Hi, I don't know your name.

Thanks to the folks who have referred our site for tiling information. We refer folks here all the time for their plumbing needs.

Either outlet in the Delta valve will work, whichever is easiest to plumb to your hand shower. I usually locate the outlet below and to the side of the valve.

The black plastic is both a template and a protector. Usually the front of the plastic is flush with the projected "finish" wall, in your case, the surface of the tile.

hj · 09-07-2009, 04:35 PM

Also either insert the Delta control cartridge or the small black "bypass plug" after you install the valve or you will have massive problems with your hot water delivery.

**GoldMaple** · 11-14-2009, 10:30 PM

I'm currently drywalling my bathroom but I'm planning forward for installing the toilet. I'm going to be pouring some self levelling cement at some point and the toilet pipe and flange will be affected. So, I have a few questions;

1. How do I remove the flange (see picture). Is it just friction fitted to the pipe? Can I just pry it up? The pipe is cast.

2. What is the best method to extend the pipe just a half inch or so to gain the height that the self levelling cement will create? Should I just use one of those flange extensions. (see 2nd picture)

**nukeman** · 11-20-2009, 11:03 AM

GoldMaple,

I hope you find your answer. I am going through a similar process (rebuild basement bathroom, moving shower drain) at the moment and your detailed pics have been very helpful. Also, if you have a link to the shower build pictures, I would sure love to see them!

Good luck,

Kent