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Thread: Bathroom framing question

  1. #1
    Software Engineer ktambascio's Avatar
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    Default Bathroom framing question

    I'm about to frame a 5x10 bathroom. Since neither dimension allows for 16" between each and every stud, what is the standard way of dealing with that? For example, for the 5' wall, would I put a stud at 16", 32", 48", and then 60" for the corner (leaving 12" in between the last pair)? Or would I make the pair of studs that need to be 12" apart in the middle? Does it really matter? There will be a tile shower here too, so I want things as solid as possible.

    Thanks,
    Kevin

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Where you are going to install drywall, it's best to have as many studs at 'standard' spacings as possible so you can use full sheets. This isn't as big a problem in a small room. Keep in mind that the paper on drywall has grain, and the proper way to install it is with the long sides horizontal. The difference is more than you might think. Makes it easier on the opposite side if you ever want to install something and are expecting that standard spacing to attach something to the wall, too.

    For your shower, if you're tiling it, take a look at Kerdi at www.schluter.com and check out www.johnbridge.com for help with building it or tiling issues. If you decide to use Kerdi, you can use drywall in the entire room; the Kerdi is a totally waterproof, tileable membrane that puts the drywall behind it, so it can never get wet and is the preferred substrate for building a shower. Cement board (cbu) would otherwise be required, and the most commonly sized sheets are 3x5', so if you use them, you may want to take that into consideration when spacing your studs in the shower area. They can guide you in the many proper ways to build a shower. My favorite is Kerdi, though.
    Jim DeBruycker
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  3. #3
    Software Engineer ktambascio's Avatar
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    Jim,

    I've been on JohnBridge.com a lot lately, reading about the tile side of this. I do plan to use Kerdi and drywall for the shower (will still do a mud bed & curb, not use the Kerdi floor). I've drywalled many times now, but I never knew about the grain of the paper. If I do the drywall horizontal, then the stud spacing doesn't really make much of a difference I suppose.

    Thanks!
    -Kevin

  4. #4
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default studs

    You start at one end and space the studs at 16" or 24", and let the final one come where it may at the corner. Usually you have to do extra framing at corners anyway. If the room dimensions are such that installing the sheet rock vertically will make for fewer/shorter seams, that is the way I would do it.

  5. #5

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    Like said before, start at one end and wherever the last stud ends up is where it ends up. Keep the spacing consistent until that point. Make sure that you have enough stud exposed to screw the drywall into once the sheet on the perpendicular wall butts into the corner. Also have some 1/2" strips for any outside corners as two 2x4's butted are not equal to the width of one. In the shower, also remember to leave space for the valve and shower head. I like to also frame in 2x6 blocking to attach grab bars to should the need ever arise. Think about this also for any towel bars or heavy things like mirrors. If you are putting in a pedestal sink, remember to put blocking in where that will go too. While to a contractor putting blocking in at floor level just above the bottom plate may be a waste of time and money, to a homeowner it provides a secure place to mount your baseboard to, especially if your flooring gets built up higher than or close to the the bottom plate. Its a lot easier than finding studs after the walls go up.

    FYI, another reason for the drywall going horizontal is that it makes it easier to mud and tape the ceiling and wall transition. The long dimension of drywall has the tapered edge that provides for the smoother tape joint.
    Last edited by iminaquagmire; 07-12-2009 at 09:57 AM.
    I consider myself an accomplished DIY'er. I don't know everything but help where I can. I'm not a pro, but like to think I'm professional.

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    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
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    Something that pro carpenters figure out intuitively, and the rest of us figure out ....usuall after the fact.....is to make sure you have a stud centered at any point that the end of a sheet of drywall will land!

  7. #7
    Jack of all trades frenchie's Avatar
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    And try to avoid putting a stud where the shower valve will go, where the sink drain will go... and so on.
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  8. #8
    Software Engineer ktambascio's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the framing advice....very much appreciated! In addition to the advice, I was also planning to put two studs where the sliding glass shower doors will go, to give it a solid place to attach, which will probably be 36" from the wall.

    Does it help to also add the horizontal fireblocks to help stabilize the studs?

  9. #9
    In the Trades AZ Contractor's Avatar
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    Depends on how tall your walls are. For 8' and lower, you can add them at 4' for perimeter nailing for horizontal drywall. If you're going vertical with the drywall I would not worry about it.

    Don't forget to add blocking for tub surrounds, towel hooks, towel racks, TP holders, etc.

  10. #10
    Web Development | HVAC patsfan78's Avatar
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    When framing out the wall start at one end and space them accordingly. 16" 32" etc. The last stud will fall where it falls. It is easier to do it this way then to try to put the "odd" stud anywhere else. If there is only 12" to the end than that is all there is.

    But, you want to keep your sheet rock in mind. Make sure you are framing for sheet rock installation. Keep that 4X8 sheet in your head when planning. The fewer seams you have to tape the better. Mudding and sanding is awful, its right up there with wallpaper removal.
    Last edited by patsfan78; 07-27-2009 at 11:59 AM.
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  11. #11
    Remodel Contractor GabeS's Avatar
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    If you are talking about the sliding shower doors that are in home depot or lowes, then you don't need wood behind it because it gets anchored into the tile. If you are talking about the heavier tempered glass then you do need wood and make sure it is perfectly level.

    You don't need blocking for light fixtures(toilet paper holder, towel bar, etc.) since they are all light and anchors would suffice.

    But for grab bars you definitely need blocking.

    I like to put a double wood where the ends of two sheetrock or cement board meet. It gives it more end support. I always hated squeezing to end pieces onto one piece of wood. They only have 3/4" end support and when you screw it in the ends always seem to crumble.
    Gabe

    Don't follow my advice, I only know a thing or two about a thing or two.

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