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Thread: Moving toilet location in concrete slab.

  1. #31
    DIY Member piperca's Avatar
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    Unfortunately, I can't get an over the pipe flange to work. The closet elbow is so close to the level of the floor that, when I use a coupler, I only have approximately 1 1/4" of pipe to connect to. I guess I could cut the flange shorter to make it fit ... is that allowable?



    So you're saying a loop vent would work fine for my sink? If so, what size should the vent pipe be? I'm also putting a second sink on the same line, which will be within 12" of the main stack; will this be a problem?
    Last edited by piperca; 10-04-2009 at 09:12 AM.

  2. #32
    DIY Member piperca's Avatar
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    I poured the concrete. I used that quick drying stuff and it's pretty dry when mixed to the manufacturers specs ... didn't like it! Anyway, it's done! I left a space for an over the pipe closet flange ... just in case.

    Also, I replaced the fittings on the stack to delete the washer trap and turned the sanitary tee to run the drain. It's 1-1/2", so I hope that'll be sufficient for the drain.


  3. #33
    DIY Member piperca's Avatar
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    Okay, someone please give me their opinion on this, so I can glue it together and be done with my dilemma ... thanks!



    This is the stub out for the second sink trap that's next to the stack ... is this okay? I'm trying to keep the stub out as low as possible, since the line is already at 19" on center.



    The only thing that I am concerned about is the 2" vent that I cut into. It services the sink, toilet and shower in the adjoining bathroom and also the kitchen sink. I have run a 1-1/2" vent from the new sink to the 2" existing. I have read that 2" can service 8 fixtures; is my layout okay?
    Last edited by piperca; 10-04-2009 at 07:31 PM.

  4. #34
    I&C Engineer (mostly WWTP) Lakee911's Avatar
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    Should that 2" (maybe 1.5") pipe into the 4" stack be connected with a wye and not a tee?

    Jason

  5. #35
    DIY Member piperca's Avatar
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    I don't know; I replaced exactly what was there and it was a sanitary tee. If you go to post #19, you'll see the original fitting; all I did was replace it with the same and turn it around. Other than that, will this suffice?

  6. #36

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    It should be a sanitary tee. Does anything drain into the stack from above? That will tell you if your vent is OK or not.
    I consider myself an accomplished DIY'er. I don't know everything but help where I can. I'm not a pro, but like to think I'm professional.

  7. #37
    DIY Member piperca's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by iminaquagmire View Post
    It should be a sanitary tee. Does anything drain into the stack from above? That will tell you if your vent is OK or not.
    Nothing drains from above; it's a single story residence.

  8. #38

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    http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...g?t=1254703371

    This is okay except for the first drain off the stack. It doesn't have to turn up like that. Doing so will make it an s trap. I'm not sure what you mean about cutting into a 2" vent though.
    I consider myself an accomplished DIY'er. I don't know everything but help where I can. I'm not a pro, but like to think I'm professional.

  9. #39
    DIY Member piperca's Avatar
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    Let me explain. The attached picture shows the existing 2" vent highlighted in red, the new 1-1/2" vent in blue and the new 1-1/2" drain in green. The house is single story. The stack is 3". There is an adjoining bathroom to the right, which you can see in the photograph. The adjoining bathroom has a toilet, sink and bath. In that bathroom, there is a short stack (3" vent) that rises from behind that toilet for approximately 3', which terminates at the top with some type of cap that the 2" vent pipe runs to (the one highlighted in red). That 3" vent has the toilet, sink, bathtub and kitchen sink draining into it. Since this 3" vent does not go through the ceiling, the 2" vent (highlighted in red) connects it to the main stack in the bathroom I am remodeling. Does this make sense? If so, will what I've done work?

    Also, I can drop the sanitary tee down a bit to lower the drain line. At the new sink location, it is sitting at 22" on center; is this too high?

    So, what you're saying is I can terminate that first drain horizontally, too?

    Last edited by piperca; 10-05-2009 at 05:45 PM.

  10. #40

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    Terminate the first drain horizontally. Your venting is fine.
    I consider myself an accomplished DIY'er. I don't know everything but help where I can. I'm not a pro, but like to think I'm professional.

  11. #41

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    The new vent for the sink needs to be no more than 42" from the p-trap and must travel vertically until it is 6" above the sink. Then you can run horizontally. Though you may need to run up to the ceiling and then over to tie into the existing 3" vent.

    DC
    Elite Plumbing

  12. #42

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    The san tee for the first sink (closest to the 3") actually uses the other sink drain as a vent and is flat (not legal). Instead of a san tee you could use a wye with a spigot san tee in the branch and then connect the vent from the top of the san tee to the existing 2" above it. All that being said, you should only have 1-fixture unit on a 1 1/2" horizontal drain.

  13. #43
    DIY Member piperca's Avatar
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    Thank you, sir!

    The first drain is sitting at 19" on center and the second at 22" on center. I am thinking I should drop the first drain to 15", so that the second is at 18", what do you think, is it necessary? I just think 22" is a bit high.

    I'll be running the copper for the sink just below the drain line and the shower valve I will be placing in between the vent and the new drain line on the back wall, so it can be adjusted before stepping below the shower head. Here is what I propose to do. The green outline is where the shower is going ... roughly.


  14. #44

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    Depending on the heighth of the vanities the 22" may be cutting it a little close. If you're using pedestal sinks then you should be allright. I usually set the sink drains at 19" off the subfloor (for vanities) and we have a few inches to spare on our tail pieces from the sink. There is no problem with the shower valve configuration. We set them at 48" off the subfloor but it's not a code issue.


    DC
    Elite Plumbing

  15. #45
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    The height of the drain openings depends on the countertop elevation, the type and depths of the sinks, and the type of drain fittings. IF that "thing" next to the stack connection is a sink drain opening it CANNOT be rolled upward the way you show it. And as a practical matter, since the other sink's drainage is flowing past it, it is effectively unvented, regardless of how close it is to the main vent. I would have run the horizontal line even lower, then used a combo at the first sink with a vertical vent and a sanitary tee at the same elevation for both sinks. What you have is a good design for a single sink at the far location, but not for two sinks at any location.

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