Moving toilet location in concrete slab.

[Terry]

You can install pipe and fittings in many ways.

You are allowed 135 degrees of horizontal change on the trap arm.
That would be up to one 90 and one 45.

You could make that with 2- 45's or one 90

It doesn't look like you will be hitting your location with the single 45
And of course you can use varying lengths of pipe between fittings.
Sometimes in concrete, I will use a 4x3 90 and stub a 4" pipe for the water closet (toilet)
Then when the floor is finished, I will cut the pipe flush with the floor and use the closet flange like the one you have, but glue it inside the pipe.
I then use a rotohammer with a 1/4" bit to drill to secure the flange to the concrete.

I don't know what you are doing with the other fittings, but you can always cut some of what you have out, and raise or lower the tees as needed.
The washer standpipe looks low to me.

So........where is the new lav going?
I think I missed that.
What you had was a pretty standard layout, the most common layout you can have.

[piperca]

The new sink will be located against the same wall as the shower, at the end of the shower (diagonally across the room from the new toilet location).

Yes the washer drain is low, since I cut it a few years back when I remodeled our kitchen. Since my last post, I'm leaning towards using the washer drain and leaving the shower floor alone ... makes more sense, correct? Will leaving the water trap in the washer drain be an issue? I wouldn't think so, but thought I'd ask.

Thanks for all your help!

[hj]

You can use a long sweep 90 to turn the drain sideways, and a 4x3 elbow for the toilet with a piece of 4" pipe for the riser. Use an outside the pipe flange. Using the shower drain for the sink, as you intended would be a very bad idea, and you would still need a vent for the sink drain. You cannot leave the washer trap in the line and still use it for the sink drain. In addition, it is so low that you would have to "jump up" for the trap connection and that will also require a vent. One question. You said the sink will be on the opposite side of the room. How to intend to get from there to the washer drain with the shower between the two points?

[piperca]

I was hoping I could run the drain through the plumbing chase I was going to create behind the shower.

This picture shows the wall the shower and vanity will be on. The shower will be on the left and the vanity (approximately 40") will be on the right, where the new framing is:



I placed a black line on the studs, approximately 18 inches from the floor, showing the top of the chase:



If necessary, I was hoping to cut a vent into the existing plumbing vent, which you can see running horizontally in this picture:



How close to the sink must the vent be? Can I loop up, through the attic and back down to connect to the vent pipe?

Here is a better picture of the washer drain. What must I do to it to make it work for the sink? Should I just cut it out and plumb in another fitting?



The horizontal pipe to the left of the 3" vent is the drain for the old sink.

Thanks for all your help!

[piperca]

Would something like this work? I could be wrong, but, in my opinion, the drain and vent line could run one on top of the other and be effective, as long as the vent is on top ... correct? Although, I'm sure there is a code that needs met.

[piperca]

Okay, I know I'm not the brightest bulb in the shop when it comes to plumbing, so I do apologize for, what you might find to be, stupid questions ... but here's another ... LOL!

What is the minimum height a sink drain can be cut into the 3"" stack?

I have decided to cut out the conglomeration of sanitary tees, shown in the last photograph above, and start from scratch.

I researched and found that the vent must extend 6" above the overflow (or rim) of a sink, but I couldn't find anything that says it must remain there. Would it be possible to do what is depicted in the following sketch? If so, that would allow me to keep the plumbing chase low, depending on what the minimum might be for the sink drain.



The sketch shows the vent line extending up and looping back down to the plumbing chase level, then back up to meet the existing vent/stack ... similar to how an island vent system would work ... would this meet code?

[Terry]

A true island vent is drained.

You pictured loop would not drain.
A vent can be flat, but not dipped.

A lav trap arm can be up to 42" long.

[piperca]

A lav trap arm can be up to 42" long.

So, I can not have the sink eleven feet from the 3" stack? Am I understanding you correctly ... or 42" without a vent? Also, If I was to connect the vent and drain at the dip, would that work to drain the vent?

[piperca]

Okay, maybe if someone takes a look at what I am doing, then you'll be able to better advise me. How would I go about adding this new vanity/sink area?

[frenchie]

Okay, I know I'm not the brightest bulb in the shop when it comes to plumbing, so I do apologize for, what you might find to be, stupid questions ... but here's another ... LOL!

What is the minimum height a sink drain can be cut into the 3"" stack?

I have decided to cut out the conglomeration of sanitary tees, shown in the last photograph above, and start from scratch.

I researched and found that the vent must extend 6" above the overflow (or rim) of a sink, but I couldn't find anything that says it must remain there. Would it be possible to do what is depicted in the following sketch? If so, that would allow me to keep the plumbing chase low, depending on what the minimum might be for the sink drain.

A true island vent is drained.

You pictured loop would not drain.
A vent can be flat, but not dipped.

A lav trap arm can be up to 42" long.

Like this:

[piperca]

Okay, I looked into it and found that loop venting is ONLY allowable in an island application ... looks like I'll have to plumb a vent up into the attic and over to the stack.

So, other than the vent, is there anything else I need to worry about? How about the water lines (hot and cold); should I run these through the attic or would running them with the drain in the plumbing chase be acceptable?

I wish there was a chat function on this site, it would make this a little easier ... LOL!

I won't be getting around to finishing up the plumbing until next week anyway. I leave for Chicago on Thursday to see my son graduate from Navy boot camp ... good boy!

[hj]

From your postings I get the impression you are going to have a kludge by the time you get done. If the chase is going behind the shower will it not have to be as high as the shower or all the way to the ceiling? The vent should be 42" above the floor to be in compliance with most codes, since they specify, "6 inches above the sink, OR 42 inches above the floor, whichever is HIGHER."

[piperca]

From your postings I get the impression you are going to have a kludge by the time you get done."

Too funny, but I agree that is how it is looking.

The problem is that I've vaulted the ceiling in the bathroom on that side and I'd have to drill through three 2x4s on flat and two 2x6s on edge to run the vent pipe into the attic. As I said before, my wife wanted a ledge built into the shower for shampoo/conditioner bottles, etc, so I thought incorporating the chase into where I put the ledge was killing two birds with one stone.

42" is fine, I can do that. I had intended on running the hot/cold lines and the drain in there anyway, so raising the chase to accommodate the vent will be fine.

Can you see any other issues, before I stumble blindly into the swamp!

[piperca]

Okay, my son graduated from Navy boot camp, so I'm back at the project!

How does this look ... okay?



The original pipe had 3/4" fall per foot, so I kept the same with the new pipe ... is that okay? The only issue I see is that the closet flange is off the level, but I hope I can finagle that when I'm attaching it to the pipe and floor ... any suggestions on this?

Next will be the drain and vent, but I'd like to get the okay before moving on ... thanks!

[hj]

Put a "spacer" around the toilet riser before you pour the concrete, so you can use an "outside/over the pipe" flange. But you are wrong about the loop/yoke vent ONLY being for islands. I use them anytime I do not have a route from the sink to the roof, such as a sink with all windows over it and lally columns or posts at either end of the windows.