Moving toilet location in concrete slab.

iminaquagmire said:

I don't know if you're a member of the John Bridge Tile Forum or not but its a great resource for anything tile related. There are a lot of Schluter pros there. John Bridges Kerdi E-Book is also a great resource.

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Funny you should mention that ... yes, I did join that forum in preparation for what is to come ... and I'll be buying the book, too.

As for the pressure treated and Kerdi; I was planning drywalling over the pressure treated before applying the Kerdi ... same as the plan I had with the plywood. This still wouldn't work?

Still a bad idea.

Point taken ... does this make you happy?



I'll put it back together tomorrow ... thanks for your input!

On a concrete slab, direct contact with wood isn't that great. Pressure treated is especially problematic when you are dealing with tile, though. Unless you can find AKAT Kiln dried after treatment stuff. The standard stuff is literally dripping with the treatment liquids, and will twist into a pretzel after it dries. Much better to do this is either bricks or cement pavers (often cheaper), or a foam kerb. The Schluter one is fairly wide, and doesn't fit in everywhere, but is quick and easy. I put one of those in and once you set it into the thinset, even while wet, it doesn't want to budge. I tiled the sides and put a marble threshold on the top...solid as a rock. Be careful with pvc primer or glue, though!

If you want to use wood, use regular stud material and put some plastic or roofing felt underneath. It won't get wet from the shower, but if there's any moisture from the slab, it could still swell and mess up things. Best on a slab is all masonary materials or the foam.

Okay, it's fixed ... not to mention, I spent a little more time on framing in the plumbing. I poured a curb out of concrete, which I think is going to work out for the best. Tomorrow; finish the wiring and other minor loose ends, then it's on to the drywall ... finally!

Much better. Did you tie the curb to the slab with some sort of pins or is it just poured on top of it?

I secured it to the partitions on both sides. I drove 4 x 16d nails into each side and left them sticking out half way; I thought that would be sufficient ... don't you think?

I think that will be okay. It'll all be tied together with kerdi and tile too. I would have pinned it to the floor with some rebar or some bolts dropped in some holes but again I think you'll be fine.

Glad to hear I don't have to tear that out, LOL!

Extra Bridging and plywood

Are those pony walls stopping at that height?

Everything looks nice and tidy. My two bits;

Add in more blocking at the bottom and top of your studs to keep them from twisiting. Add in 2"x10" blocking mid span where one day a grab bar migght be installed.

Put in diagonal bridging on the pony walls like one would support a gate and then glad with 1/2" ply glued and screwed. This will stiffen those walls up a lot.

Good Luck.

Looks great.

John, yes, the walls terminate at 76"; I'm trying to keep the room open feeling. What you can't see from the photograph is I have opened up the ceiling and vaulted it to 14'. I will be adding a venting skylight to finish the look.

I will add additional blocking to the walls, but I'm not sure it needs the 1/2" ply. The small wall is under 24" and the other is only 41". I think the blocking will be more than sufficient ... it's very sturdy as it is, since it is screwed to death! After framing, I made sure I ran around it with 3" screws to make sure there was not going to be any movement for the Kerdi ... and I can assure you there's not!

Finally ready for drywall ... I've got three 3" round electrical boxes (oxymoron ) to mount for the vanity lights, but I'm going to use the type that mount in the drywall, so I can place them after the drywall is up.