Shower drain plumbness?

Hello all,

I'm solvent welding my p-trap drain in a shower stall. I've already redone it and the I'm close to centered, however I've been reading that I need to make sure that the drain is plumb.

What is plumb? Does this mean that the drain pipe that comes up through the floor must be straight and level all the way around? My current installation has a slight lean toward the horizontal main drain pipe that carries the water away. My big concern during the install was holding the pieces tight to ensure no leaks.

How will I be able to get the drain pipe level without compromising one of the joints in my install?

Thanks for your help

Doug

Plumb means that the drain pipe riser is vertical. To check this, you need to put your level against it in two places, 90-degrees apart. This means the pipe will not be trying to tilt the drain or have tension on it since the (desire anyway) is to have the top of the drain perfectly level.

The horizontal section after the trap should slope down at 1/4" per foot (or more).

If the riser isn't plumb, then your drain will likely be slanted, making it tougher to make it work well without a puddle around it in the shower, or a lip to the tile, which you'll curse every time you step on it.

plumb

you ensure that it is plumb when you make the installation. Once the glue joints dry, it is too late to try to adjust it.

HJ,

so would you install the vertical riser last after the other joints are set or try to install the p trap and riser all wet at the same time while trying to get everything centered and plumb?

Thanks,

Doug

ok, it's reinstalled and plumb. a level check on each side of vertical drain pipe gives a level result.

The cement sure does dry fast! However I did find that it was still a little workable seconds later to get the drain pipe centered.

Now, hopefully no leaks. Is the purple primer/cement method pretty much foolproof as far as leaks go or do you do a leak test of sorts. Pour buckets of water through the p-trap, run a garden hose upstairs?

Thanks,

Doug

trap

INstall the trap and then riser after it has set.

PVC connections are tapered, solvent welded...they are really hard to dry fit because of that taper. If you cleaned then applied the cement all around, then inserted the pipe into the socket to the bottom, then held it for a moment until it sets up, it should not leak. It helps to rotate the pipe as you put it into the socket to spread the cement well, but isn't absolutely necessary if you applied it without gaps. If you don't hold it for a bit, that taper can actually push the pipe out of the socket before it sets up.