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Thread: Culligan Mark 812 Water Conditioner - Time to replace?

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  1. #1

    Question Culligan Mark 812 Water Conditioner - Time to replace?

    Hi,
    I just purchased a house with a Culligan Mark 812 Water Conditioner. The conditoner was put in about 13 years ago. It doesn't seem to be doing much to condition the water as soap doesn't lather good and there is a strong iron smell to the water. Also, spots on the glasses, etc.

    I have it doing a recharge about 2x per week and there is only 2 of us in the house. I had recently sanitized the brine tank and the salt level is adequate. Any suggestions on troubleshooting this? Could it be the media has reached the end of its useful conditioning life and if so, is that replaceable? I hate to have to replace the system as it is not in the budget right now.
    Thanks,
    Ron

  2. #2
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    I don't know their model numbers so I don't know what type control valve is on your softener but... if it unclamps or unscrews from the tank, you should be able to replace the resin fairy easily. If the control has two collars covering dovetail type tank connectors, then it is fairy difficult for a DIYer to replace the resin. But it may not be the resin.

    Does it use salt? If not poke a stick down through the salt to see if there is a hollow spot under the salt keeping the salt up out of the water. That would be a salt bridge. Other causes of not usign salt are a blocked drain line or injector, injector throat or injector screen. Is there more water in the brine tank than is normally in it?

    Post a picture of the tank to control valve area and the face without the cover on it.

    If you get around to a new softener, I suggest one using the Clack WS-1 or Fleck 7000SE control valve. IMO they are the best choice for any DIYer.

    Gary
    Quality Water Associates

  3. #3

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    Actually, I did a little more probing and might have found the fix. I unscrewed a metal cover on top of the control valve and removed what I believe was the injector and screen. They were dirty with sediment build up, so I cleaned them out. I initiated a manual recharge and the tube in the brine tanks inserts and picks up the water, so that seems good. I also put some iron out in the brine tank. Today it seemed better, so I will have to see how it goes over the next few days. The control valve is mounted with a dovetail type connector, so it may not be easy to remove it and change the media. I am guessing I would have to unsolder the in/out pipes to the valve if I need to go that route. Thanks for the help!
    Ron

  4. #4
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Glad to hear you fixed it.

    Usually you remove 4 screws fron the plate that holds the yoke or by-pass valve on to the back of the control valve to get the control off the pluming without unsoldering pipes.

    Gary
    Quality Water Associates

  5. #5

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    Hi Gary,
    I'll take a look for the screws as that sounds much easier. Thanks for your help!
    Ron

  6. #6

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    Looks like I am back to hard water and the iron smell. I think I will try replacing the water softener media. Any recommendations on the best media to use?
    Thanks,
    Ron

  7. #7

    Default Culligan Mark 100 soft-minder

    Hi

    Our softener is about 15 years old on well water. For the most part, it has worked fine. I found if I add one bag of Rust remover to 3 bags of salt there is very little rust buildup in the house and the wife doesn't complain about her hair turning orange.

    Now, my problem. A couple months ago I had to replace our well tank. Since then, it seems the softener regenerates but am getting a lot of rust in the house and the slick feeling in the shower is long gone. When the water first came back on, we had some black water in the house for the first few minutes, so I figured the valve was plugged somewhere.

    I took off the valve, rinsed it out in the bath tub, pulled everything apart I could find to take out, cleaned everything I could. I had a lot of black pieces in the but when I was done, but nothing big enough that it would seem to plug the entire unit. This seemed to help for about one shower, then back to the same thing.

    The salt level does not seem to be dropping, even though I have manually regenerated it multiple times. I have not added salt since the well tank was replaced, I thought maybe the screen in the bottom of the brine tank was plugged so I took it to the car wash and sprayed it with high water pressure, still no better.

    The softener is working to some degree because if I bypass the unit, you can see the water turn orange in the house. But it is not working as it should because the toilet, shower and sinks are getting very rusty and there is no slick feeling in the shower.

    Should I try clearing the valve again? Is there something or some place I should pay special attention?

    Thanks for your time.

    Tom

  8. #8
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Hi Tom. Look to make sure the unit it not plumbed backwards.

    Other than that, as long as it is using salt, I'd guess bad resin.

    You cold replace it but on your model it may be difficult. And since it is a time clock model, you may want to replace it with a metered/demand regenerated new softener. If so I suggest one with a Clack WS-1 control valve.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  9. #9

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    Hi Gary,

    Thanks for lightening fast response!!! I can't imagine its plumbed backward, it worked fine for 15 years and things go back together only one way.

    The unit is metered and the issue doesn't seem to get any better even after manual regenerations, nor does the salt level seem to be going down any.

    I can't get past something plugging the valve ports somewhere. Everything was fine, till that burst of black water from replacing the tank.

    If it is the resin, where do I get resin and how do I replace it?

    Thanks again,
    Tom

  10. #10
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    If it isn't sucking brine, then that is the cause of it not working. Tear it apart agsain and see if there is more black stuff up in the valve and then check the drain line isn't kinked or blocked, same for the injector, its throat and filter screen, that the brine line connections aren't allowing it to suck air, that a safety float isn't raised/shut off etc..

    Most any local dealer and all online dealers can sell you resin.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  11. #11

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    I will tear it apart again this evening. The brine line isn't kinked, I can taste salty water in it so the salt is getting that far at least.

    I'm not sure what or where the injector is. As far as I can tell, its a sealed unit, lots of ports from the plumbing, drain line and brine line, that's about it. But I don't think anything I can take apart.

    Someone recommended Super Iron Out. Have you heard of or used it or some other sort of cleaning agent? I was considering using Works Toilet Bowl Cleaner, that does a job on the rust stains, thought maybe running some of that through might clear up or break up some blockages. Of course with a massive rinsing afterward!!!

    I haven't had the time to sit and watch the softener for its entire regeneration cycle, but what I have seen about 10 minutes into the cycle, through the drain tube is only a trickle. During other times would the water be rushing through it, or is it usually a slow trickle?

    Thanks again for all your help!!!

    Tom

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