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Thread: How do I make this connection from sink drain to wall?

  1. #1
    DIY Member ironspider's Avatar
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    Default How do I make this connection from sink drain to wall?

    Greetings all,

    As you can see from the attached image I have recently installed a new sink in this bathroom vanity we have. The old P trap and wall connector were metal and destroyed/damaged/lost in the process of changing out the vanity and redoing the bathroom.

    So, my big problem now is that I'm not sure how to connect up the existing tail piece to the wall because the wall home is lower AND off to the side of the tail pipe.

    Are there some sort of flexible connectors that I can use here? I went to HD and they did not have a ton of 1 1/4" Plastic connectors. It looked like they had a lot more of the 1 1/2" plastic pipes but that doesn't help me I don't think since the wall hole and tail piece are all 1 1/4".

    I'd really appreciate any guidance I can get!

    Thanks!
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  2. #2
    In the Trades Thepartsguy's Avatar
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    Longer waste arm and a S/J extension. Maybe a 45.

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    DIY Member ironspider's Avatar
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    Thanks for the speedy reply PartsGuy.

    So the longer waste arm would take me out to right by the wall hole, where I would use the 45 to line it up with teh wall hole?

    How (and forgive my ignorance in maybe actually meaning "what is") does the S/J extension fit into it? Does s/j stand for slip joint?

  4. #4
    Homeowner geniescience's Avatar
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    lower the p trap to the level of the "hole".
    Your p trap in the image is too high.
    sj is slip joint.
    the sj extension is to get the p trap down lower.

    Level = means with a 1/4" per foot slope, so it's not level but almost.

    The 45 is to turn to the "hole", but only on the horizontal plane, keeping the same flat line from ptrap to the hole in the wall.

    Executive Summary: P traps can only be placed on the plane level with the hole (with the 1/4" slope)

    2nd subject: you do have the option to shape the line coming down from the sink as you wish, so it could offset and thereby place the P trap somewhere closer to the hole in the wall. Search this term "double offset" to get an idea showing only one of the infinite possibilities. Conclusion: it is not required that the p trap be directly under the sink drain; only that its output be lined horizontally with the hole in the wall.

  5. #5
    Plunger/TurdPuncher kingsotall's Avatar
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    And whatever you do, DON'T use flexible connectors. Those are for the ill informed. We would like to steer you in the right direction.
    I just post cuz I like to see my avatar.

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    DIY Member ironspider's Avatar
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    Okay King,

    So, as I said though, there are very few fittings in the drain section at the big home store places. is this just because I am looking in the el-cheapo plastic parts area and I should be looking somewhere else (like in the "PVC" area?)

  7. #7
    Plunger/TurdPuncher kingsotall's Avatar
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    Do you have enough pipe coming out of the wall to connect toż Two inches or soż
    I just post cuz I like to see my avatar.

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    DIY Member ironspider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingsotall View Post
    Do you have enough pipe coming out of the wall to connect toż Two inches or soż
    Well the wall hole is threaded and accepts the 1 1/4" nut. So I think I could just cut the waste pipe so that it goes into the wall an inch or so and then tighten the nut to the existing threads on the metal wall pipe and be good to go on that end correct?

  9. #9
    Master Plumber nhmaster's Avatar
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    You mean one of these
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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    YOu may be able to unscrew the chromed pipe at the bottom of the sink and replace with a longer piece. It sounds like the wall connection is a Desanko, and has a compression washer and nut on it - standard drain compression fitting. If so, yes, you just push the piece in there and tighten up the nut. You may need to take it off and slide the tapered washer over your pipe first. The tapered part goes towards the wall (the flat part under the nut) so when the nut tightens, it pushes tight against the inserted pipe.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  11. #11
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default drain

    I would remove the trap adapter, install a threaded nipple and 45, then another nipple and female trap adapter. Finally a longer threaded tailpiece and the trap. But there are other ways which are not as rigid or tight. such as a tubular 45 into the adapter and then a tubular extension to the trap and another one down into the trap, but this arrangement can be subject to falling apart if it is bumped hard.

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