Ball valves - are they created equal?

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lurch

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I need to replace my 3/4" main shutoff ball valve as
1. the handle is rusting through
2. on a recent pipe replacement job there was a small amount of leakage (maybe this is normal)
3. I want to upgrade my main supply through the house to 3/4" - and I'm not sure if trying to attach a 3/4" male fitting to this valve will work.

I have 2 in my possession - a chinese Matco and an Italian Mueller - both sweat. My plumber swears by Watts and as this is a pretty important valve - I'd very much appreciated the learned opinions on this forum as to what they would install.

Also - my current valve is a compression - I would like to replace with a sweat fitting - is this advisable? I'm in NJ and I'm assuming the main pipe inlet is thicker copper.
 

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Kingsotall

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That's a compression valve. Wow. Showing my greeness. Never seen a valve like that.

Your plumber seems to be spot on with his choice. Trust the man.
 

lurch

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yep - its not a compression - just a threaded valve.

Seems I have 2 choices - try to remove the threaded reducer fitting at the top to replace with a 3/4 straight male

or

get the water shut -off and replace the whole valve

any suggestions?
 

BAPlumber

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wouldn't any solution be just as easy?

Shutting off the ball valve, cutting the copper, unscrewing fitting from the valve, screwing in new copper mip adapter and pipe?

Shutting off city line/meter, cutting copper, sweating on new ball valve, sweating on new 3/4" tubing?

of the valves you have, I'd use the Mueller.
 
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SewerRatz

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The valve still works? Does it leak? If it works and is not leaking why not jsut change the handle and nut? If you can not find a new handle just take the old one off can clean it up and hit it up with some rustoleum.
 

lurch

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Thanks for your reply Brent - your probably right - its just in my town they want $60 to shut off the water at the street - the access point is visible (and brand new - as they had to replace and test it last fall)

Not only is it the money - its syncing up with the water guys to get them out on a weekday at the right time.

If I could turn it off myself.... - I would go for the new valve
 

lurch

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How long do these valves last? - and is there no risk that it leaks from the handle? And it doesn't leak from the valve - but when I shut it off the other day - it did leak a very small amount of water - so the normal operation is OK - but the shut off is not 100%.
 

Kordts

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If ya don't mind getting wet, shut off that valve, cut the pipe coming out of the top. Get a new threaded 3/4" ball valve and put pipe dope on the threads and open it. Spin the old valve off, spin the new valve on, as soon as one thread is caught, close the valve and wrench it on tight. Then you can do whatever else needs to be done.
 

Gardner

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The valve may be tight to the wall -- would have to bend the tubing outward a bit to get clearance to spin the valve.

Rather than getting wet, I might be tempted to try to form an ice plug using a couple of bags of dry ice and ethanol around the pipe half way between the floor and valve. I have no experience with professional ice-plug gear, bit it doesn't look *that* complicated.

I bet that even with the street valve off there will be some small amount of flow, making sweating a bit hard.

In our town it's $70 per visit and usually you're talking about one visit to cut off the water, and a separate one to turn it back on. I understand you have to know the city worker pretty well and do some slick talking to get her to hang around for 20 mins while you do your work.
 
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Shacko

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Replacing Valve

Thanks for your reply Brent - your probably right - its just in my town they want $60 to shut off the water at the street - the access point is visible (and brand new - as they had to replace and test it last fall)

Not only is it the money - its syncing up with the water guys to get them out on a weekday at the right time.

If I could turn it off myself.... - I would go for the new valve


If you know where the access point is why don't you shut off the water yourself? I won't tell.;)
 

Jeff H Young

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A couple things I notice foriegn to me. why does canada and east coast run such puny pipe? you all plumb houses on 1/2 inch and then upgrade to 3/4 ? isnt 3/4 still undersize ? got code? If I have a dink with a puny yard or Im really feeling cheap might run 3/4 to a house. Am I wasting money ? 1 bath house I run 1 inch to the house and reduce somewhere after my regulator andshut off but not befor a fixture. 2 bath possibly the same but if big yard or longer run might go 1 1/4.
My house came with 1 1/2 built in 02 100 psi I do have fire sprinklers though.
2nd question Why dont you turn your own water off? We all do that here unless an old lady springs a leak and calls 911
For 60 bucks times 2 trips Id take a bath unscrew and change valve live (at least in the summer time)
 

Reach4

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A couple things I notice foriegn to me. why does canada and east coast run such puny pipe?
I don't think that 1/2 would be used for new construction supply line.


Why does California construction often bury type M copper pipe rather than require K or at least L?
 

Jeff H Young

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I don't think that 1/2 would be used for new construction supply line.


Why does California construction often bury type M copper pipe rather than require K or at least L?
Never seen type m underground . common practice most of my career was soft copper type L under a slab house. sleeved with a poly where crossing footings or concrete . the good companys went full length sleeving. no joints under slab.
I have seen on one occasion copper run under slab (could have been type m) in a early 1960s building with basically tees 90s everything soldered below slab in sand. Pretty hokey . Im sure if I saw that than at least some houses were probebly slammed together in the late 50s possibly to the late 60s when "slab" houses were getting popular and So Cal was exploding by the mid 1970s It was Soft Copper and lots of it they used a lot of it above ground as well sweeping up joist bays to second floor stub outs and tub valves. Around 1978 we had anexplosion in copper prices (and Silver) and some home builders went back to galvinized for price didnt last long though.
Ive seen some real crappy work here and other places but the underground type m I hadnt really heard of .
When they say they dont make em like they used to , the responce can be thats a good thing because So many parts of construction was inferior than today especialy the structure and foundations.
But I dont see houses with 1/2 water mains unless its from pre war era
 

Jeff H Young

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I dont actualy check which copper is there very often If Im doing a repair it is what it is. I saw the old thread but I dont think type m was legal underground or is today . but perhaps outside building is ok . I dont do it never have.
As much as I love copper dont like it at all unprotected underground and even protected im not crazy about it underground if avoidable
 

Mr tee

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Many years around plumbing in Southern California and never saw M in the ground. Few would pony up for K.
 
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