That's a compression valve. Wow. Showing my greeness. Never seen a valve like that.
Your plumber seems to be spot on with his choice. Trust the man.
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I need to replace my 3/4" main shutoff ball valve as
1. the handle is rusting through
2. on a recent pipe replacement job there was a small amount of leakage (maybe this is normal)
3. I want to upgrade my main supply through the house to 3/4" - and I'm not sure if trying to attach a 3/4" male fitting to this valve will work.
I have 2 in my possession - a chinese Matco and an Italian Mueller - both sweat. My plumber swears by Watts and as this is a pretty important valve - I'd very much appreciated the learned opinions on this forum as to what they would install.
Also - my current valve is a compression - I would like to replace with a sweat fitting - is this advisable? I'm in NJ and I'm assuming the main pipe inlet is thicker copper.
That's a compression valve. Wow. Showing my greeness. Never seen a valve like that.
Your plumber seems to be spot on with his choice. Trust the man.
I just post cuz I like to see my avatar.
yep - its not a compression - just a threaded valve.
Seems I have 2 choices - try to remove the threaded reducer fitting at the top to replace with a 3/4 straight male
or
get the water shut -off and replace the whole valve
any suggestions?
wouldn't any solution be just as easy?
Shutting off the ball valve, cutting the copper, unscrewing fitting from the valve, screwing in new copper mip adapter and pipe?
Shutting off city line/meter, cutting copper, sweating on new ball valve, sweating on new 3/4" tubing?
of the valves you have, I'd use the Mueller.
Last edited by BAPlumber; 06-17-2009 at 09:20 PM.
Brent
The valve still works? Does it leak? If it works and is not leaking why not jsut change the handle and nut? If you can not find a new handle just take the old one off can clean it up and hit it up with some rustoleum.
Ron Hasil Lic #058-160417
A-Archer Sewer & Plumbing specializing in:
Tankless Water Heaters | Drain and Sewer Cleaning
Sump and Ejector Pumps | Backflow RPZ Testing
Thanks for your reply Brent - your probably right - its just in my town they want $60 to shut off the water at the street - the access point is visible (and brand new - as they had to replace and test it last fall)
Not only is it the money - its syncing up with the water guys to get them out on a weekday at the right time.
If I could turn it off myself.... - I would go for the new valve
How long do these valves last? - and is there no risk that it leaks from the handle? And it doesn't leak from the valve - but when I shut it off the other day - it did leak a very small amount of water - so the normal operation is OK - but the shut off is not 100%.
If ya don't mind getting wet, shut off that valve, cut the pipe coming out of the top. Get a new threaded 3/4" ball valve and put pipe dope on the threads and open it. Spin the old valve off, spin the new valve on, as soon as one thread is caught, close the valve and wrench it on tight. Then you can do whatever else needs to be done.
The valve may be tight to the wall -- would have to bend the tubing outward a bit to get clearance to spin the valve.
Rather than getting wet, I might be tempted to try to form an ice plug using a couple of bags of dry ice and ethanol around the pipe half way between the floor and valve. I have no experience with professional ice-plug gear, bit it doesn't look *that* complicated.
I bet that even with the street valve off there will be some small amount of flow, making sweating a bit hard.
In our town it's $70 per visit and usually you're talking about one visit to cut off the water, and a separate one to turn it back on. I understand you have to know the city worker pretty well and do some slick talking to get her to hang around for 20 mins while you do your work.
Last edited by gardner; 06-19-2009 at 01:42 PM.
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