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Thread: Another shower valve rough-in question

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member Davebutch's Avatar
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    Default Another shower valve rough-in question

    I just plumbed a Moentrol 3570 rough-in valve. The instructions say to mount the valve so that the plaster guard will be at the face of the finished wall. Since the finished wall will be board plus tile and thinset, I'm guessing the thickness to be at 1 1/8. If I mount the valve body accordingly, what happens if I'm off by 1/8 or so? Is there any wiggle room as to the depth?

  2. #2
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Default

    Somewhere on that plaster guard, there should be min/max lines. If the finished wall is between those two then the trim will fit. Some people like less projecting out, so you may want to go towards one end of the spec. My guess is with the plaster guard flush, you are near one end...if the wall ends up a little thicker, the trim won't fit without buying an extension kit.

    If it sticks too far out, there's no way to fix it except to reset the valve which may be tough if you don't have access. If it is too far in, you may need to purchase an extension kit (if even available), which may look funky. So, look for the min/max lines, and judge accordingly to get it somewhere in between.

    Most people prefer the looks if it isn't projecting into the shower near the max.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  3. #3
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default Moen

    Moen has a great deal of leeway beyond the plasterguard dimension, and if it is too deep, there is an extension. Just do not get it too shallow because there is no way to compensate for a valve too close to the finished wall.

  4. #4
    DIY Junior Member Davebutch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hj View Post
    Moen has a great deal of leeway beyond the plasterguard dimension, and if it is too deep, there is an extension. Just do not get it too shallow because there is no way to compensate for a valve too close to the finished wall.
    That's sort of what I figured: too deep is better than too shallow, but needed some confirmation. Thanks to all for the guidance.

  5. #5

    Default

    check out ferrisbracket.com

  6. #6
    DIY Junior Member Tencentdress's Avatar
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    I realize that this was posted years ago, but my husband came up with a solution to a shower valve that was installed too far out. The plumber used a 2 X 4 instead of a 1 X 4 to support the valve in the roughin, so it was sticking 3/4" too far into the shower. I had installed all of the tile on the shower side and T&G bead board on the laundry room side of the wall. Either was going to be a nightmare to remove and repair. I was ready to shoot the plumber in the knee caps. Luckily my husband is a knife maker and he has a milling machine in the garage. He milled out the shower handle and filed/flattened the brass stem of the valve. Worked like a charm! If you do not have a brilliant spouse and milling machine in your back pocket, you can probably find a shop that would do that for you. Filing down the valve stem is a task easily accomplished. Hope this helps someone! It saved us a lot of heartache and headache...not to mention a long prison sentence (if the knee cap shooting had occurred).

  7. #7
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    That "Remedy" will NOT work with all valves.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

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