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Thread: Overflow question

  1. #1

    Default Overflow question

    I'm trying to install a new bath on a 2nd story where there wasn't overflow piping before even though there was a bath. It's all ABS 1 1/2" piping.

    However, there is a support beam / joist in the way as seen here:



    My solution is to try to go right over the joist rather than drill a hole through it by cutting out the drain that is there, using a san tee with the drain on top, and a dirty arm over the beam leading to the overflow fixture, leaving the p-trap where it is. That way the drain would continue to function as it has been, and if there is an overflow, it would just dump into the existing drain.



    However, I can't seem to find an ABS tub drain rough in like the one picture that goes straight down. Anyone know what exactly it would be called? The only ones I can find are the 90 degree angle pieces for the whole drain/overflow kits that they sell at places like Home Depot. Would it be possible to find such a rough in for the drain in male rather than female form? That would make it a million times easier to attach it to the san tee.

    Thanks.

  2. #2

    Default

    After searching I've discovered that I can get this job done with a part manufactured by WATCO, # 11027 Direct Drain Tee, Schedule 40, ABS

    It is less than $5 in the WATCO catalog. How or where could I order this piece?

  3. #3
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default drain

    It will be an interesting tub if there is enough room under it for the overflow pipe to go over the joist, especially since the fittings will then make the bottom of the tub about 2" or so higher than that, meaning that the tub's floor/bottom will have to be raised about 4" or so above the bathroom floor to do it.

  4. #4

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    I can notch the beam if necessary, I'm just trying to avoid drilling a 1 1/2" + hole through the middle of it.

  5. #5
    DIY Senior Member jastori's Avatar
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    Default

    It is better to drill through the middle of the joist than it is to notch it. In fact, code generally does not allow notching, but does allow drilling. Notching dramatically weakens a joist, while a hole near the middle has very little effect on strength.

    Specifically: (I believe the following is correct, you probably should check your applicable codes to verify)

    No notches at all in the middle third of a joist.
    Holes are permitted up to 1/3 of the actual joist height, but must be at least 2" away from the top/bottom (closer to the middle is best).
    Last edited by jastori; 06-03-2009 at 01:12 PM.

  6. #6
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Default

    Much of the strength in a joist is the top and bottom edges in compression or tension. Similar to an i-beam or engineered beam, where the middle just holds the top and bottom chords. Cutting a hole in the middle, as long as it isn't huge, is much preferred to notching.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  7. #7

    Default

    Watco sells this new drain system called Flex in a direct drain where it is some kind of approved flexible tubing between the overflow and the drain. I'm thinking that would be an easier way to get around the joist. Just put the tee with the arm sideways and run the flex fit around the side of the tub, over the joist, and to the back.

  8. #8
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default flex drain

    And just how long do you think the flex portion of the flex drain will be?

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