mdj_remodel
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Thank you to everyone that donate their time to share your plumbing knowledge with the rest of us. You have saved countless people from bad sitiuations in home renovations.
I am still rebuilding in New Orleans, LA and I am having to bring in a new plumbing contracter to replace the current one that is leaving the area. I have a GC handling the renovation now and the new plumber is his recommended selection.
On our walk through the job this week, the plumber said most of the new plumbing work put in by the old plumbing contractor would not pass code inspection. The reasons the new plumbing contractor cited I cannot find in the Uniform Plumbing Code or local codes which New Orleans, LA is under. The code enforcement office in NOLA is to overwelmed to answer my questions.
Here are the code violations that the new plumber cited that I want to make sure are right before I pay for the work twice. I know bigger is better, but I cannot find any code voilitions for the new plumbing that was put in last year. The current sizing design seems to be sufficent by all tables I looked at.
For a full bathroom across the house from the house's main 4" terra cotta sewer line (1920's NOLA house)
1) The drain line on all horizontal runs with a toilet must be 4" pipe.
(The current pipe is 3" and it downslope is 1" per foot into 4" main sewer line. The pipe run is 30 feet from the vent turn to the roof to the main sewer line. This entire new line has to be remove and replaced with 4".)
2) The vent for this line must be 3" because it has a toilet on the line.
(The current vent is 2" and it has a just a bathroom sink, toilet, and shower on this drain. Changing to 3" is going to cause some major framing work.)
3) Cannot have a closet flange upstream on the drain line from a back vent wye that is upstream from a wye for a shower trap.
(The closet flange is upstream for a wye that connect the shower trap to the 3" drain line. The toilet is 4.5 feet from the vent to the roof (within critical distance) and shower drain is 7 feet. Between the upsteam toilet and shower trap is a 2" back vent to the 2" vent stack to the roof. New line with back vent above closet flange wye into drain line.)
4) A 1/2" copper line can have no more the 2 fixtures on the line.
(Current 1/2" line is 8 feet long (coming off a 3/4" line) and has the sink, toilet and shower on the line. Must be upgraded to 3/4" for first two fixtures and can stay 1/2" for the last fixture).
5) No 1/2" copper run can be over 10 feet in length.
(The house has have a 14 feet 1/2" copper run with just a 1.5 GPM flow restricted kitchen sink at the end. At least 5 feet of the line must be upgraded to 3/4" copper.)
6) The trap for a island sink cannot be above the point that loop vent's has it horizontal run to a vent stack. The trap for the sink must be below the back vent to the vent slack.
(This is the basic vent loop design on all of the books. The trap in these books is in the normal place right below the kitchen sink. The new plumber is saying tha the trap must be below the vent and the whole loop vent upper part can be removed. Since the vent is below the floor, the new plumber is putting technically putting a back vent below the flood level of the sink by eliminating the upper loop vent. His design will have the trap below the vent)
Is this new plumbing contractor right and all of this new work has to be replaced? I just cannot find his code interpertations in the UPC or local codes.
Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
mdj
I am still rebuilding in New Orleans, LA and I am having to bring in a new plumbing contracter to replace the current one that is leaving the area. I have a GC handling the renovation now and the new plumber is his recommended selection.
On our walk through the job this week, the plumber said most of the new plumbing work put in by the old plumbing contractor would not pass code inspection. The reasons the new plumbing contractor cited I cannot find in the Uniform Plumbing Code or local codes which New Orleans, LA is under. The code enforcement office in NOLA is to overwelmed to answer my questions.
Here are the code violations that the new plumber cited that I want to make sure are right before I pay for the work twice. I know bigger is better, but I cannot find any code voilitions for the new plumbing that was put in last year. The current sizing design seems to be sufficent by all tables I looked at.
For a full bathroom across the house from the house's main 4" terra cotta sewer line (1920's NOLA house)
1) The drain line on all horizontal runs with a toilet must be 4" pipe.
(The current pipe is 3" and it downslope is 1" per foot into 4" main sewer line. The pipe run is 30 feet from the vent turn to the roof to the main sewer line. This entire new line has to be remove and replaced with 4".)
2) The vent for this line must be 3" because it has a toilet on the line.
(The current vent is 2" and it has a just a bathroom sink, toilet, and shower on this drain. Changing to 3" is going to cause some major framing work.)
3) Cannot have a closet flange upstream on the drain line from a back vent wye that is upstream from a wye for a shower trap.
(The closet flange is upstream for a wye that connect the shower trap to the 3" drain line. The toilet is 4.5 feet from the vent to the roof (within critical distance) and shower drain is 7 feet. Between the upsteam toilet and shower trap is a 2" back vent to the 2" vent stack to the roof. New line with back vent above closet flange wye into drain line.)
4) A 1/2" copper line can have no more the 2 fixtures on the line.
(Current 1/2" line is 8 feet long (coming off a 3/4" line) and has the sink, toilet and shower on the line. Must be upgraded to 3/4" for first two fixtures and can stay 1/2" for the last fixture).
5) No 1/2" copper run can be over 10 feet in length.
(The house has have a 14 feet 1/2" copper run with just a 1.5 GPM flow restricted kitchen sink at the end. At least 5 feet of the line must be upgraded to 3/4" copper.)
6) The trap for a island sink cannot be above the point that loop vent's has it horizontal run to a vent stack. The trap for the sink must be below the back vent to the vent slack.
(This is the basic vent loop design on all of the books. The trap in these books is in the normal place right below the kitchen sink. The new plumber is saying tha the trap must be below the vent and the whole loop vent upper part can be removed. Since the vent is below the floor, the new plumber is putting technically putting a back vent below the flood level of the sink by eliminating the upper loop vent. His design will have the trap below the vent)
Is this new plumbing contractor right and all of this new work has to be replaced? I just cannot find his code interpertations in the UPC or local codes.
Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
mdj