ball valve leaking

Every winter the pipe outside my home that goes to the hose, leaks. I drain the pipe before winter, but the ball valve that is inside the house lets a dribble of water through, even though it is closed and after a winter of expanding and contracting with water in it, it leaks. So I am unable to turn off this dribble.

Inside thew house, in a close proximity we have the cold water pipe that goes to other parts of the house. T'ing off to this it goes to a ball valve, and then to a drain valve, and then through the wall (which is over 1 foot thick and made of stone) to the outside valve, and then to the hose.

I would like to get around have to cut out the old ball (it is less than 10 years old) valve and replace it since a) it is up in the basement ceiling b) it is very close to the wood beams which old up the very old floor c) it is very tight (the distance from the ball valve to the drain valve is about an inch. the distance from the water source T to the ball valve is about 5 inches. The distance between the drain value and the exterior wall is about 5 inches.)

Is there anything I can do without having to get a torch into this tight space? Perhaps some pressure fittings using that orange PEX?

Install a ball valve somewhere else on the same cold line.

As I said, there is approx only one foot in which to remove the current ball valve and replace it.

Do you have access to any other part of the line in question¿ If so throw a ball valve in there. Does the current ball valve leak in the open position¿

>>Does the current ball valve leak in the open position¿

You mean leak from the valve itself? No. When the valve is closed a little bit of water still emits. Is there a washer in these things?

>>Do you have access to any other part of the line in question¿

No. As I said there is only about 1 foot between the stone wall and the supply.

Overall I am trying to get around having to use a torch in such a place so close to antique beams. Are there any torchless solutions?

The only thing I can think of is to use is a Sharkbite ball valve.
Google it or search this forum for info on them.

It goes: stone wall --> supply--> then where does it go¿ If ball valve only leaks when in the closed/semi closed position then find an area of the pipe further downstream to plumb a ball valve in.

cwhyu2 said:

The only thing I can think of is to use is a Sharkbite ball valve.
Google it or search this forum for info on them.

Click to expand...

OK. Now we are thinking outside the box. But how do I get this in? Say I cut out the old ball valve. Let's say this leaves a 3 inch piece missing in the line. Now I want to put the Sharkbite back exactly in it's place. But the sharkbite is not exactly 3 inches long.

Tighten the packing nut.

Sharkbite makes slip couplings.

Check out the Apollo Pipemaster valves at the big blue/red box. Compression tailpieces are one of the options. The overall pattern is generally longer, allowing you to cut out the old and not have to sweat in anything.

See here: http://www.apollovalves.com/pipemaster/pipemaster.asp

TedL said:

Check out the Apollo Pipemaster valves at the big blue/red box. Compression tailpieces are one of the options. The overall pattern is generally longer, allowing you to cut out the old and not have to sweat in anything.

See here: http://www.apollovalves.com/pipemaster/pipemaster.asp

Click to expand...

What is a big blue/red box?

He means the cheapo depot or blowes.

I'd consider getting a frost-free silcock. You may be able to get one as long as 18". This puts the actual valve portion at the end of it. Not sure how long they make them.

jadnashua said:

not sure how long they make them.

Click to expand...

10, 12 and 14 inches

A frost-free silcock is a good idea. I have thought about that before. There are 2 problems.

The walls of this house are stone and about a foot thick, maybe more. Assuming I get the 14" silcock, this only leaves perhaps and inch or two coming through the wall.

2. The silcocks are usually stainless steel. Right? Will a sharkbite-like connector attach to such a thing? I will have a hard time trying to solder in such a tight space.

3. The plumber who put the 1/2 copper tube going through wall used lots and lots of clear caulking. He drilled a 3/4" hole through the stonewall and totally caulked around the copper, through the hole. How do I get the old pipe out? If I use a torch (on the outside) and really heat up the old copper, will it just melt the caulking so it will release the old copper tube so I can pull it out?