insulated

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brad_j

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It looks like I'll have to go with an insulated Drake. My current Drake is dripping a bit and installing a sweat valve would be difficult in my situation.

First, I'm wondering if these insulated tanks work well and if anyone has experience with them. Does the insulation deteriorate after awhile?

Second, what is a good way to insulate my current Drake? Is there a good insulative material that someone has used that works well?

Third, I see that there is no "insulated eco drake" giving me the 1.28 flush. Couldn't I change out the flapper or something to give me that?

Thanks for any insight.
 
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Jadnashua

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Adding insulation on the inside of the tank will replace some of the volume of water with the insulation. I'm not sure the overflow tube is high enough to compensate so you'd have the same volume of water available for a flush. You might find using the 'standard' flapper after you add insulation would give you the same water dump as with an eco-version and an uninsulated tank.

Normally, sweating is only an issue if the toilet is flushed frequently, or there is a leak causing cold supply water to constantly be replacing the warmed water in the tank. But, if you need it, you need it. Maybe you need to run the exhaust fan in the bathrooms longer...maybe a timer on the fan or add a hygrometer activated switch to remove excess moisture from the air from bathing.
 

Peanut9199

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First, I'm wondering if these insulated tanks work well and if anyone has experience with them. Does the insulation deteriorate after awhile?

No that's why they don't use Styrofoam cups anymore because it takes thousands of years to breakdown.

Third, I see that there is no "insulated eco drake" giving me the 1.28 flush. Couldn't I change out the flapper or something to give me that?

You can change the flapper to a THU277S and that will allow only 1.28gpf out of the tank.

attachment.php

E-Max flapper THU277S
 
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