(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Results 1 to 13 of 13

Thread: Cast Iron joint question...

  1. #1

    Default Cast Iron joint question...

    How easy/hard is it to remove a lead joint in order to facilitate removal of the coupling; then connect to PVC with a banded fernco, etc?
    Thanks,
    Quinn

  2. #2
    Sound and Light Suppervisor for a School District tjbaudio's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    162

    Default

    I have drilled out the lead and cleaned up the hub with a side grinder with wire brush. The other option if it is vertical is to melt the lead out. Tho I have drilled and then used the torch. Then use a fernco hub to PVC bushing. It is rubber and goes in with a hammer! Very good seal.

    If you are connecting to the non hub side of the pipe you need a banded coupler unless you are out side and burying it.
    tjbaudio
    I have a mild form of Dyslexia that affects my ability to spell. I do use spell checking to help but it does not always work. My form of Dyslexia does not affect my reading. Dyslexics of the world untie!

    www.incertclevername.com

  3. #3
    In the Trades kordts's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    exurban Chicago
    Posts
    551

    Default

    You can break the pipe down to the hub and use a sawzall to cut a slice of the old pipe out, then chisel it out. If I transition to PVC, I use soil adapters instead of pvc pipe or fittings. The o.d. is different.

  4. #4
    Master Plumber nhmaster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    S. Maine
    Posts
    2,039

    Default

    I use a lead pick, specialty tool for removing lead. www.mephestotool.com

  5. #5
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    Posts
    25,651

    Default lead

    There are many ways to disassemble a lead joint. Each case is different depending on the size, the accessibility, and the tools you have available. The easiest way is usually to cut the cast iron off and use a No-Hub coupling.

  6. #6

    Default

    Thanks for the answers so far, I'll try to post a picture of what I am planning later tonight.
    But essentially, I have a CI wye in the basement on the main stack going out. It is connected to PVC and leaking. Below that is a cleanout, also seeping. I am redoing some of the plumbing and would like to put PVC back in. Ordinarily, I'd just cut the pipe above and below, but there isn't easy access above. So, it would be easiest to cut below and remove the joint above.
    Thanks, Quinn

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nhmaster View Post
    I use a lead pick, specialty tool for removing lead. www.mephestotool.com
    That link didn't work for me?

  8. #8
    Plumbing Designer FloridaOrange's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    SW Florida
    Posts
    1,317

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by doc5md View Post
    That link didn't work for me?
    Try this: http://www.mephistotool.com/
    Matt
    Semi-professional plumbing designer
    Enjoying life in SW Florida

  9. #9

    Default Pictures...

    Here are some pictures. Please, keep in mind that no plumbing you see here is my doing!
    I'd like to disconnect the wye and go with pvc.
    Access to the straight portion of the stack above that weird S fitting is too tight, so disconnecting it would be the best option I think.


    end view of the S fitting


    The PVC fitting spectacular!
    http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2433/...8324e062_b.jpg
    Thanks, Quinn

  10. #10
    In the Trades kordts's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    exurban Chicago
    Posts
    551

    Default

    NHmaster, I didn't see a lead pick in that site. I just unpacked a lead joint today, I could have used one.

  11. #11
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    Posts
    25,651

    Default lead

    Cut beneath the Y, then apply one heavy hammer to the side of the hub, while holding a second one against the other side for backup. Repeat as necessary until the hub becomes two pieces. You will have a bead on the end of that offset fitting, (haven't seen one of those in decades), so you will have to cut that off. What you use to do that will depend on the tools you have available.

  12. #12

    Default

    Thanks HJ,
    That offset fitting is wild. The house was built in 1896.
    A grinder should be able to remove the bead, right?
    Quinn

  13. #13
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    Posts
    25,651

    Default bead

    Yes. The offsets were made in 2" increments up to 12". The modern ones, if you could find one, are more like 45's rather than 90's.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •