connect 2 pressure tanks with a hose

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millerbill

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Yes, I know it sounds crazy, but try filling five gallon and one gallon containers with water.

Our primary well which is connected to a pressure tank and purification system has failed. Our irrigation well is pumping like crazy.

Until I can get a professional to connect my irrigation well to the house, will a connection by hose from my irrigation well to my "dry" well pressure tank work?

The distance will be about 75 feet, and I realize a hose connection will have to be put in the line with a shutoff valve so water goes to the pressure tank and not to the "dry" well.

If it will work, will I need to shut off the water whenever the dry pressure tank reaches optimum pressure or could the water be left on? (Wouldn't that damage the bladder?)

Thanks for any advice,
Bill
 

hj

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hose

The only hoses not rated for potable water are those made from recycled materials, and they are usually labeled that way. If not, how would millions of RV's get their water supplies? If the irrigation well has some type of shutoff control, and does not just run all the time, then there is no additional controls needed as long as you connect after its tank.
 

Alternety

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There are white hoses available for RV use. I don't know if or what is different in materials. Pressure is not an issue. All water hoses are usable at house pressures and you will not exceed house pressures. You probably want to run a chlorine treatment through the new components.

You must have a pressure switch on the irrigation system pump. Since you said 2 tanks, I assume there is a pressure tank and switch in the irrigation system. Be sure it is set for pressures suitable for you house.

There will be some pressure drop in the hose; use 3/4". You could also just get whatever you are going to bury to connect the systems together permanently and use that. It should be a larger diameter. Get it long enough for the final install of course.
 

Gary Slusser

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In the dry well there will be a foot valve for a jet pump or a check valve in or on the outlet of a submersible pump. As long as it sealed before you lost water, you don't need a check valve in the hoses, or between the dry well pressure tank and the dry well.

Your pressure tank will operate as if the dry well delivered the water, it couldn't care less what well or pump sends it water, and it doesn't know a different well is sending it water.

You're fine as long as when no water is used the pressure holds steady and doesn't fall.

All RV hoses have a pressure rating and it isn't all that high. Usually there is a warning on the cardboard they are attached to when you buy the hose. I have gone through a couple that swelled/stretched and eventually had pinhole leaks. The city water pressure I was hooked up to for 4-5 months rose considerably overnight and usually was at 80-90 psi otherwise. A hose is less expensive than a PR valve I probably wouldn't use for yrs afterward. I live in a motor home full time and have for 2.5 yrs.

This hose thingy is temporary and any hose that will handle the pressure should be fine. Buy bottled water until you get the dry well going again.
 
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