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Thread: woodeye

  1. #1

    Default Installing a new point and chlorinating

    I have just taken over maintenance responsibilities at my fathers lake cottage. We are having trouble with the well not being able to keep up with the pump. It pulls water for a few seconds then it will spit air for a few seconds then water and so on. It take about 10 min from where the pump comes on at 30# to where it shuts off at 50#. I'm told that the screen is plugged or the well just isn't producing enough water. We think the well is only about 14' deep. My plan is to try to pull the old point and pound in a new one (possibly 5'-10' deeper). If I can't get the old one out I will need to start fresh (next to the old one ?) and pound in a new one. Do I check for water each time I add a new length of pipe and how much water should there be standing in the pipe for me to stop from going any deeper. When I've got the pump all reconnected and running clear do I need to chlorinate the well. What is the procedure to chlorinate a well? Should I flush sand and sediment from the well using a neighbors hose before connecting to the pump so as not to damage the pump? I appreciate any help I can get from you all.
    Thanks Jeff
    Last edited by woodeye; 05-05-2009 at 12:10 PM. Reason: to change title

  2. #2
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  3. #3

    Default Sticky link.

    Thanks for the link. I had read that before posting. I was hoping to get your's or other's ideas about my diagnosis of the problem and my ? about amt of water in pipe, chlorinating, purging the debris. I did look through the forum and saw a discussion re chlorinating but didn't get a clear answer as it related to my situation. This is my first experience with a point well system and we're trying to save my dad some stress and money. We only need the fix to work for a few years as dad is getting pretty old.
    Jeff

  4. #4
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    Developing the well is done with a pitcher pump or a jet pump. To chlorinate, simply pour bleach down the well after you develop it to remove all the sand and get the water clear. A quart should be plenty followed by several gallons of water. Let sit for a few hours, hook up the pump and pump clear.

    bob...

  5. #5

    Default

    Thanks! Well here goes

  6. #6
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    Keep us posted! All the bad things too.

  7. #7

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    Does there have to be bad things. I excavated down to the tee where the horizontal pipe ties into the down pipe. I'm going to set up an a-frame with a block and tackle tomorrow and try to pull the old point out. Keeping my fingers crossed. I'll let you know how it goes. Jeff

  8. #8
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    Before you do any pulling, turn the entire well clockwise with a large pipe wrench until it turns freely.

    I really doubt a block and tackle will pull an old point, but time will tell.

    bob...

  9. #9
    Homeowner Thatguy's Avatar
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    Default

    You know the joke about the guy with the wooden eye at the dance, right?

  10. #10

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    The girl had a hair lip or a peg leg etc.

  11. #11

    Default Pulling with block and tackle

    Thanks for mentioning that I should rotate the point with a lg pipe wrench. I'm hoping that the well is only 15' deep and I've already excavated about 4' to get to the tee. If I'm unable to pull the point can I try to drive the new point close to the old point. I'd like to use the hole that I've already dug to get to the old tee.
    Jeff

  12. #12
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    Every little bit helps. Back in the dark ages, I used to pull them with a railroad spike puller, 4X4, pipe wrench and chain. It took two guys or one guy and a brave woman. One to jump up and down on the spike puller while the other held a pipe wrench up tightly on the pipe to keep the chain from slipping. Each three foot of down motion on the puller would net about 2" of well up on the other end. But it worked, after of coarse turning the well to break all the crud loose on the point, which will by the way be left around the old screen. If you put the new one back in the same hole, you will be putting it back into the same blob of mineral that was left there from the first one.

    bob...

  13. #13

    Default

    I was hoping to drive the new point a little deeper than the old one was. Assuming that the old one is only 15' deep. Do you think that I should move the new one or try to drive it a little deeper in the old hole.
    The old pipe, going over to the house was reduced to 1" gal, then when It gets inside, after it goes through the 1" check valve it increases back to 1 1/4" before it goes into the pump. Is this reduction ok? I'd like to reuse the old check valve if possible. The 1" pipe is protected by a 2" gal sleeve which goes through the wall. On the inside the 2" pipe (with the 1" inside) had some kind of a bushing that fit inside the 2" pipe and kept the 1" pipe in the center of the 2". Is this some kind of a protector. I didn't see any thing like it where I purchased the point and couplings, caps, pipe etc.
    Jeff

  14. #14
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    The 1" is a restriction. Driving it deeper may or may not work. It's all in the cards.

    bob...

  15. #15

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    If I were to move the point, do you have a feeling on how far ? 1' ok? Do you recognise the bushing I described inside the 2" pipe. Is it necessary or can I just protect the horizontal pipe where it goes through the wall.
    Jeff

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