woodeye

woodeye · May 5, 2009

Installing a new point and chlorinating

I have just taken over maintenance responsibilities at my fathers lake cottage. We are having trouble with the well not being able to keep up with the pump. It pulls water for a few seconds then it will spit air for a few seconds then water and so on. It take about 10 min from where the pump comes on at 30# to where it shuts off at 50#. I'm told that the screen is plugged or the well just isn't producing enough water. We think the well is only about 14' deep. My plan is to try to pull the old point and pound in a new one (possibly 5'-10' deeper). If I can't get the old one out I will need to start fresh (next to the old one ?) and pound in a new one. Do I check for water each time I add a new length of pipe and how much water should there be standing in the pipe for me to stop from going any deeper. When I've got the pump all reconnected and running clear do I need to chlorinate the well. What is the procedure to chlorinate a well? Should I flush sand and sediment from the well using a neighbors hose before connecting to the pump so as not to damage the pump? I appreciate any help I can get from you all.
Thanks Jeff

Speedbump · May 6, 2009

Read the sticky at this link: https://terrylove.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22546

Sponsor · 2022-01-29T12:20:58-0800

woodeye · May 6, 2009

Sticky link.

Thanks for the link. I had read that before posting. I was hoping to get your's or other's ideas about my diagnosis of the problem and my ? about amt of water in pipe, chlorinating, purging the debris. I did look through the forum and saw a discussion re chlorinating but didn't get a clear answer as it related to my situation. This is my first experience with a point well system and we're trying to save my dad some stress and money. We only need the fix to work for a few years as dad is getting pretty old.
Jeff

Speedbump · May 6, 2009

Developing the well is done with a pitcher pump or a jet pump. To chlorinate, simply pour bleach down the well after you develop it to remove all the sand and get the water clear. A quart should be plenty followed by several gallons of water. Let sit for a few hours, hook up the pump and pump clear.

bob...

woodeye · May 6, 2009

Thanks! Well here goes

Speedbump · May 6, 2009

Keep us posted! All the bad things too.

woodeye · May 6, 2009

Does there have to be bad things. I excavated down to the tee where the horizontal pipe ties into the down pipe. I'm going to set up an a-frame with a block and tackle tomorrow and try to pull the old point out. Keeping my fingers crossed. I'll let you know how it goes. Jeff

Speedbump · May 7, 2009

Before you do any pulling, turn the entire well clockwise with a large pipe wrench until it turns freely.

I really doubt a block and tackle will pull an old point, but time will tell.

bob...

Thatguy · May 7, 2009

You know the joke about the guy with the wooden eye at the dance, right?

woodeye · May 8, 2009

The girl had a hair lip or a peg leg etc.

woodeye · May 8, 2009

Pulling with block and tackle

Thanks for mentioning that I should rotate the point with a lg pipe wrench. I'm hoping that the well is only 15' deep and I've already excavated about 4' to get to the tee. If I'm unable to pull the point can I try to drive the new point close to the old point. I'd like to use the hole that I've already dug to get to the old tee.
Jeff

Speedbump · May 8, 2009

Every little bit helps. Back in the dark ages, I used to pull them with a railroad spike puller, 4X4, pipe wrench and chain. It took two guys or one guy and a brave woman. One to jump up and down on the spike puller while the other held a pipe wrench up tightly on the pipe to keep the chain from slipping. Each three foot of down motion on the puller would net about 2" of well up on the other end. But it worked, after of coarse turning the well to break all the crud loose on the point, which will by the way be left around the old screen. If you put the new one back in the same hole, you will be putting it back into the same blob of mineral that was left there from the first one.

bob...

woodeye · May 8, 2009

I was hoping to drive the new point a little deeper than the old one was. Assuming that the old one is only 15' deep. Do you think that I should move the new one or try to drive it a little deeper in the old hole.
The old pipe, going over to the house was reduced to 1" gal, then when It gets inside, after it goes through the 1" check valve it increases back to 1 1/4" before it goes into the pump. Is this reduction ok? I'd like to reuse the old check valve if possible. The 1" pipe is protected by a 2" gal sleeve which goes through the wall. On the inside the 2" pipe (with the 1" inside) had some kind of a bushing that fit inside the 2" pipe and kept the 1" pipe in the center of the 2". Is this some kind of a protector. I didn't see any thing like it where I purchased the point and couplings, caps, pipe etc.
Jeff

Speedbump · May 8, 2009

The 1" is a restriction. Driving it deeper may or may not work. It's all in the cards.

bob...

woodeye · May 8, 2009

If I were to move the point, do you have a feeling on how far ? 1' ok? Do you recognise the bushing I described inside the 2" pipe. Is it necessary or can I just protect the horizontal pipe where it goes through the wall.
Jeff

Speedbump · May 8, 2009

I would say three foot would be better.

I don't have any idea what they did through the wall. I would just fill it with caulk or foam.

bob...

woodeye · May 8, 2009

Thanks. Well we pulled and pulled but it didn't come. At least 3000# lifting power. We left the rig set up with pressure on it.I'll look tomorrow to see if it moved at all. probably not though. I wasn't able to get the pipe to turn. The top piece of pipe is threaded into the top of the tee. All that happened was the tee turned. I was afraid the tee might break so I stopped. I had a 2' wrench with a 2' piece of pipe on it. I couldn't get down into the hole and have any leverage below the tee so that's that. I guess I'll dig another hole a ways off and try pounding a new one there. I'm going to run into a problem if I go out too far. The lot line only about 8' from the house. Is it ok to go out 1'-2' and then go rt or left 1'-2' to find new soil. Can I use 1 1/4 black polly with adapters and 2 hose clamps on each end for the horizontal pipe through the wall? That way I won't need to use gal pipe and elbows. Or is it ok to elbow below grade?
Jeff

Speedbump · May 9, 2009

It's perfectly fine to use poly with male adaptors and clamps. Use a little heat to put the barb in the pipe. Elbows are ok, but with poly you shouldn't need them.

If you can't turn the pipe, 3000# isn't going to pull it. You must turn the point first.

If you move over, it shouldn't make any difference in what depth you go, it's the old plug your trying to get away from and it could be as large as 6' in diameter.

bob...

woodeye · May 9, 2009

Good morning. It rained like the dickens last nite. I'm going out there in a while to play in the mud. I'll go after turning the old point one more time. If no luck I'll move over 3'-4' and start to pound the new one. As I get a length of pipe in, do I check for water before I attach the next pipe. Assuming I find water how far into it should I drive the point. Is there an amount of water standing in the pipe I will need? Is it conceivable that I could drive past the water. I realize that 25' is the magic #. Is 25' measured from the tip of the drive point to the tee. I hope I'm not becoming too much of a pain in the A___! Maybe someone else is getting some benefit from this discussion.
Thanks Jeff

Speedbump · May 9, 2009

The 25' number only pertains to the water level in the pipe. The depth of the well is only how deep you must go to get into an artesian aquifer. Once there, water will rise up in the pipe to seek the level of the highest point of that aquifer.

You can check for water after each joint, but if you already have a good idea of how far to go, get there first then check. Or check the joint before getting to the desired depth. If you are getting a little water, the next joint (5') will usually put you there.

bob...

woodeye

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