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Thread: Fir strips

  1. #1
    DIY Member FlynHokie's Avatar
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    Default Fir strips

    I have to fir (spelling?) my shower wall out 1/4" to ensure the backerboard & tile overhang the showerpan flanges. I plan on ripping 1/4" plywood to do so.

    Do any of you have any recommendations for how to secure the fir strips to the 2x4 framing? I think Framing nails or deck screws would be overkill - and block the ideal place to secure the backerboard to the wall.

    Thanks in advance for the advice!

    FlynHokie

  2. #2
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    Default

    Since you asked, it's furring strips. As far as fastening the strips, I would err on the side of overkill. 1-3/8" deck screws probably. These are moisture resistant so they won't rust out. Plenty long enough to hold in case there is any weight pulling on them.

  3. #3
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Default

    I'd just tack them on, the screws you use to attach the cbu will then keep them anchored fine. You could even use a little construction adhesive...if you did that, you'd want more than a couple of fasteners, otherwise it may not end up tight to the stud. You may want to specify slightly longer cbu screws, but it probably won't make that big a difference at 1/4". don't forget the vapor barrier.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  4. #4
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default furring

    Construction staples would hold it best without interferring with you sheeting anchors.

  5. #5
    DIY Member FlynHokie's Avatar
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    Default Why Furring strips

    Thanks for the info everyone.

    I do have a question though. After ripping the 1/4" plywood into furring strips, and installing the strips through the whole shower, I began to realize what a Pain doing that is.

    Is there a reason to not use a full sheet of plywood to fur out the wall, rather than a bunch of strips? It would be a whole lot simplier, less time consuming to do.

    I can't think of a reason not to, not that it will help me now. But doing so in the main bathroom when I renovate that might save me time.

    FlynHokie.

  6. #6
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    You could do that, but materials cost is higher. WIth the right saw, it's pretty quick to rip that thin stuff.

    Note, one thing that some people find helpful when the studs aren't aligned in a nice flat plane is to instead sister new studs besides the existing ones so that when you install the sheet goods to those new ones, everything is nice an flat and square.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  7. #7
    DIY Member FlynHokie's Avatar
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    Default

    Thats what I figured it would be, the cost. The time to tac all the strips seems to far outweigh the ocst of the plywood. I think i'll do that next time. I did actually use the sister joint on one of the studs! Thanks!

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