Mr. Overkill
New Member
Hi all, I hope you can help.
CX from John Bridge forum sent me over here.
I have 2 threads going over there:
http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=279339#post279339
http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=24312
I've been construction phase of building a house for over a year now doing alot of the work myself.
I'm back on the shower project after taking a sabbatical to accomplish a few other projects around the house like changing toilet drain locations and squaring up doors and windows from drying lumber and cement settling.
I am now tackling the rough-in plumbing for the steam shower and ran into a few problems with the routing of the copper lines and stud warping.
1st the stud problem:
I have already replaced 3 studs that were the worst off (warping inwards or outwards of the shower) and blocked another 2 that were warping side to side. The 3 studs I replaced are already warping after only being in for 3 weeks. I am now officially sick of fixing and replacing studs. The only studs I could get around my area are either already warped or are so heavy with moisture, they warp very quickly in the Pahrump climate (today it was 110 degrees with only 4% humidity) I could almost watch the wood drying out and twisting in front of me .
Framing questions:
1) How much of an outward warp will I be able to compensate for during the tiling stage (I know that a board warping inward can be planed)?
2) Seeing on how getting straight lumber around here is next to impossible, if a board is to warped for compensation, should I go with the cut and shim solution for straightening?
3) Can a layer of mud be applied to the Durock to get my even straight walls?
4a) Or should I just forget the Durock plan and attempt a mud shower to get my straight walls?
4b) If I go with the mud shower how much thicker is a mud wall compared to ½†Durock? (to adjust my valves appropriately)
2nd the pipe routing problem:
My shower will have 2 shower heads, 4 body sprays, 1 rain from ceiling, a hand shower, a steam head, and 2 valves with selectors all on 2 walls. I am using ½†rigid copper pipe for the water lines and routing is becoming a problem since there is so much going on inside the walls. Some of the pipes being on the same plane are in the way routing another.
Pluming question:
1) To get away from using to many 45’s is there a trick to bending rigid copper just enough to get around another pipe without kinking it?
(I’m not particularly fond of using the thinwall pipe, I want my shower to last as long as I’m in the house)
Thanks in advance for advice -
I'm in a rush to finish the rough-in to get my inspection and move on the next stage, I am already 2 ½ months over schedule and my better half is turning into something other than better.
-David
CX from John Bridge forum sent me over here.
I have 2 threads going over there:
http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=279339#post279339
http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=24312
I've been construction phase of building a house for over a year now doing alot of the work myself.
I'm back on the shower project after taking a sabbatical to accomplish a few other projects around the house like changing toilet drain locations and squaring up doors and windows from drying lumber and cement settling.
I am now tackling the rough-in plumbing for the steam shower and ran into a few problems with the routing of the copper lines and stud warping.
1st the stud problem:
I have already replaced 3 studs that were the worst off (warping inwards or outwards of the shower) and blocked another 2 that were warping side to side. The 3 studs I replaced are already warping after only being in for 3 weeks. I am now officially sick of fixing and replacing studs. The only studs I could get around my area are either already warped or are so heavy with moisture, they warp very quickly in the Pahrump climate (today it was 110 degrees with only 4% humidity) I could almost watch the wood drying out and twisting in front of me .
Framing questions:
1) How much of an outward warp will I be able to compensate for during the tiling stage (I know that a board warping inward can be planed)?
2) Seeing on how getting straight lumber around here is next to impossible, if a board is to warped for compensation, should I go with the cut and shim solution for straightening?
3) Can a layer of mud be applied to the Durock to get my even straight walls?
4a) Or should I just forget the Durock plan and attempt a mud shower to get my straight walls?
4b) If I go with the mud shower how much thicker is a mud wall compared to ½†Durock? (to adjust my valves appropriately)
2nd the pipe routing problem:
My shower will have 2 shower heads, 4 body sprays, 1 rain from ceiling, a hand shower, a steam head, and 2 valves with selectors all on 2 walls. I am using ½†rigid copper pipe for the water lines and routing is becoming a problem since there is so much going on inside the walls. Some of the pipes being on the same plane are in the way routing another.
Pluming question:
1) To get away from using to many 45’s is there a trick to bending rigid copper just enough to get around another pipe without kinking it?
(I’m not particularly fond of using the thinwall pipe, I want my shower to last as long as I’m in the house)
Thanks in advance for advice -
I'm in a rush to finish the rough-in to get my inspection and move on the next stage, I am already 2 ½ months over schedule and my better half is turning into something other than better.
-David