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Thread: Fitting from pitless adapter to poly pipe leaking

  1. #1

    Default Fitting from pitless adapter to poly pipe leaking

    The fitting coming from the pitless adapter to the house is corroded & needs replaced. I'm guessing that if the fitting breaks off while trying to remove it I might be able to use an easy out or something comparable to remove the remnant (I hope). If I can remove the leaking fitting what is the best way to splice or reconnect the poly pipe to the new fitting. Problem is only 2 feet of poly pipe is uncovered & it is to stiff to flex onto new fitting. Any help is apprecaited.

  2. #2
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    Keep digging.

    bob...

  3. #3
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    And don't break the male fitting off. Replace it with SS.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  4. #4
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    I've got the same problem. I've exposed 3-4 feet of the poly, and I'm wondering what's the best way to replace the corroded fittings.

    I posted some pictures:

    www.billhecht.com/images/DSC_0072.JPG
    www.billhecht.com/images/DSC_0071.JPG

    Assuming that it would be difficult to pull the barb out of the poly, I'm considering:
    1. Cut the poly before it goes into the barb
    2. Unscrew or cut the barb out of the Tee
    3. Unscrew the galvanized pipe nipple and Tee out of the pitless adapter and replace
    4. put a new SS barb in the remaining poly
    5. use a long galvanized nipple (and maybe a union?) to get to the new Tee.

    Is what I describe the right way to do this, or ... ?

    Thank you for your help!

  5. #5
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    Tip:

    If you start to unscrew the fitting from the pitless and it starts to flatten out from the pressure of the pipe wrench. Get a 3/4" piece of galvanized pipe and put it inside of the 1". This will give it strength so you can reef on it with a wrench and get it to unscrew instead of flattening out and breaking off.

    bob...

  6. #6
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    And while you're unscrewing the galvanized T stuff, hold the nut on the pitless so it doesn't turn. Do the same when installing the new stuff; don't use any galvanized. I would add enough PE pipe to make a natural curve into the pitless and use a SS male x insert and a coupler and double clamp all joints.

    You heat PE evenly, outside and inside, just quite warm to the touch and let it cool before clamping it.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

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