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Thread: Dishwasher from scratch.. get me started

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    Scientist jeremytl's Avatar
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    Default Dishwasher from scratch.. get me started

    Howdy folks.
    I have an 18" dishwasher ordered and on its way. The standard size will not fit.
    I'd like to go ahead and get the space cut out. I have the dimensions and a saws-all to make the cuts. The red square in the foto is where she's going. My foremost question is how far down to I make the hole? Do I go ahead and cut all the way down to the linoloeum? There has never been a dishwasher in this house so it is a from scratch job.

    Any advice is greatly appreciated~
    Jeremy


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    DIY scratch-pad engineer leejosepho's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeremytl View Post
    Do I go ahead and cut all the way down to the linoloeum?
    If the dishwasher is going to be sitting on the floor when you slide it into place, then yes, the toe-kick will need to be removed ... but I would be inclined to do that with a fine-toothed handsaw rather than with a 6-teeth-per-inch sawzall. Keep in mind that any cut you make on the face of your cabinets will ultimately either become a finished edge or an edge in need of finishing. Also, it looks like you might need to remove the oven door or its handle in order to slip the dishwasher into place ... and are you sure the dishwasher will then open again? The depth of the handle on the oven door effectively reduces the width available for the dishwasher.

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    Plunger/TurdPuncher kingsotall's Avatar
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    That's where the sawzall will come in real handy to take care of the oven door handle.
    I just post cuz I like to see my avatar.

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    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    Your cut needs to be neat, so a recip saw would not be a good choice. The hand saw with fine teeth would be best, but jig saw with a fine tooth blade would also make a smooth cut. I would not cut anything until I had the installation plans in front of me. Then measure at least twice before cutting. Cut it too big and you'll have a real problem.

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    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
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    Most brands...you can download the install manual and specs from their website. I would get that and have a look before you start cutting.

    Other than that, fairly straightforward as the sink is right there for water and drain. How about power? Where will you get that, since if there is power under sink for disposer, it is SWITCHED.


    Back to the drain? What code are you under? Many areas REQUIRE and air gap, which means a new hole in the sink top. OOPS......I see you have no room for a new hole, but you will have to lose the sprayer or the soap dispenser

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    DIY Senior Member TedL's Avatar
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    With the range pulled out, it seems like a pretty easy task to pull out the blind corner cabinet and disassemble it carefully to get a nice cut. You may even be able to flip the front panel and get a good factory cut edge. Or cut at the door opening and the blind end, that way only a few inches of your cut will be exposed.

  7. #7
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    If you're lucky, look carefully at the stiles where that cabinet to be removed and the sink base connect. You may find that there are some screws and you can remove them, and then the cabinets will come apart...no cutting at all. If they were built in place, then the face frame may be all one piece, and that won't work. Can't tell from the picture. There may be backing for the countertop that is screwed into the cabinet. That may be the hardest thing to remove. Again, if you're lucky, you might find that you can just leave that and the DW might slide in with it still attached.
    Jim DeBruycker
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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    Get your head inside the cabinet and look around. You need to be sure of where the cabinets are separated. It looks like the left side red line should be where the side of the sink base cabinet is. Don't cut where you don't have to.

    If the cabinet is laminate or ply,use a laminate blade in the saw (the teeth are reversed to cut on the inward stroke). Use a straightedge clamped to the front of the cabinet as a guide to get a straight cut. You can install new laminate edging around the cut opening.

    Dishwasher steam will find it's way into the cabinet space and can cause moisture problems. Everything in the opening should be sealed with a good oil-based paint.

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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default Dw

    The dishwasher should be flush with the face of the cabinets when it is installed so the cut edges should not be visible, so no need to worry about whether they are stained or not.

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    Scientist jeremytl's Avatar
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    Default thanks all

    I appreciate all your advice. I am tackling this project this week and may be posting other questions. Thanks for all your input.
    Jeremy

  11. #11
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hj View Post
    The dishwasher should be flush with the face of the cabinets when it is installed so the cut edges should not be visible, so no need to worry about whether they are stained or not.
    I would be more concerned about sealing the edges to avoid moisture damage. Many of the inexpensive laminate cabinets are particle board core and will be damaged if left exposed. Even if they were solid hardwood, you wouldn't want the edges exposed to the steam/moisture.

  12. #12
    Scientist jeremytl's Avatar
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    Default gate valve fitting... (pics)

    My dad and dishwasher are rolling down I-40 as I sit here.... I am trying to get a few things ready. Again, this is a dishwasher (18") installation from scratch, this house has never had one. I'm planning to use the hot water line coming up from beneath the house. I already realized that I got a wrong part. Is there such a fitting/part that would screw onto the existing gatevalve that would have a tee- one for the dishwasher feed and the other for the sink hot water tap?




  13. #13
    DIY Senior Member TedL's Avatar
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    You should be able to find or cobble a tee from the Watts brass fittings that the big boxes stock.

    See here:
    http://www.watts.com/pro/_products_s...=68&parCat=118

  14. #14
    Plunger/TurdPuncher kingsotall's Avatar
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    So far so good, like the branch tailpiece you got.

    These work well without having to get a three way stop.



    EZ-Connect Adapter
    If big orange or blue don't have it, try a plumbing supply house.
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  15. #15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by leejosepho View Post
    If the dishwasher is going to be sitting on the floor when you slide it into place, then yes, the toe-kick will need to be removed ... but I would be inclined to do that with a fine-toothed handsaw rather than with a 6-teeth-per-inch sawzall. Keep in mind that any cut you make on the face of your cabinets will ultimately either become a finished edge or an edge in need of finishing. Also, it looks like you might need to remove the oven door or its handle in order to slip the dishwasher into place ... and are you sure the dishwasher will then open again? The depth of the handle on the oven door effectively reduces the width available for the dishwasher.
    Agreed, I would also use a saw with a finer blade well

    Quote Originally Posted by kingsotall View Post
    That's where the sawzall will come in real handy to take care of the oven door handle.
    That made me laugh, Thank you
    [B]
    You Should Assume Everything I say Is A Complete Lie - Thank You ~

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