Tank Bults Either Rusting or Causing Rust

Tank Bolts Either Rusting or Causing Rust

Guys,

I had a plumber out in February and he did a toilet rebuild. This morning I noticed that the tank bolts he installed are either causing rust or are rusting. We do not have this issue in our other two toilets.

Here is a picture of one of the tank bolts that is rusting:



Here is a picture of a tank bolt from one of the other toilets where there is no rusting:







Is this a problem? Should I go ahead and replace these bolts? If so, with what kind and do I need to have a plumber out for that or can I do that myself? Does replacing the bolts require taking the tank off the toilet?

Eventually, the bolt will rust enough so the connection will fail and the tank will leak. Replace them with solid brass (not brass plated) or stainless steel bolts. It normally isn't a big deal to replace. The plumber cheaped out on you, and I'd be annoyed. You don't need to remove the tank, but you do need to turn the water off and drain the tank dry, since when you remove the bolt, there'll be a hole, and any water left there will leak out. The key is to tighten bolts side-to-side a little bit alternately and evenly, and not try to crank one down, then go to the other. Make sure the washers and nut are either SS or brass as well.

Re

Thank you for your help. I was able to replace the tank bolts during my lunch break today. I waited an hour and there were no leaks. Flushed it several times.

I'm not sure what that plumber used but even the rubber seals he used seem really cheap and were dissolving/corroding badly.

I'll never call that company again!

He used a cheap tank to bowl kit probably from a big box store that came with yellow zinc plated steel bolts instead of brass.

Re

Yes. The same plumber also installed some cheap Fluidmaster that caused water hammer. Based on research I did here, I discovered that that is common with Fluidmasters. I called them back, even paid another $49 trip charged, had them listen to the sound, and asked them to replace the parts with a traditional ball cock etc. They wouldn't do it. Pretty sad!

Fluidmaster is a good valve...works, lasts a long time, the only wear part is cheap and easy to replace. If your piping is marginal, since it shuts off fast, you may get some hammering, but that also could be a symptom your pressure is high and you should have a pressure reduction valve in your home. The Korky Quietfill valve shuts off slower or you could add a hammer arrester which would resolve the hammer. Personally, I would never replace a toilet fill valve with an old-style valve.