Leaking Treviso Faucet

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GMrules

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Installed 8" widespread Price Pfister 49 series Lavatory faucet

when I turn on the water supply no leaks when I turn a handle it leaks from the underside HW side, only when the handle sends water to the spout

Its brand new and I am sure I messed up the install, I have attached the exploded parts view

its part 971-025 the hose on the hot side where it connects to 900-015

not sure how I messed it up seems easy enough

ideas??

Thanks
George
 

GMrules

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Thanks all there was tape that they use to mark mark the hot side with.
I did not realize the tape slide up between the o-ring and value


We are golden now. I have removed the tape

thanks all


how high above the s-trap does the vent have to be?

I have the following


90 Street Elbow --Shruder Vent
|
|
2"PVC -- 2x1 1/2 bushing -- 1 1x2 Street Elbow---- Tee 1 1/2 pipe S-trap -- sink


I have about 6-8 inches from bottom of the trap depends on where you measure.

Thanks
George



3
 
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Kingsotall

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I think the minimum requirement is 4" from the trap or crown weir.

en5112a0074.gif
 

hj

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vent

IF we could figure out how you have it installed we might be able to tell you. Your "diagram" does not help because if we take it at face value it looks like the water has to flow uphill.
 

GMrules

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Here is Pictures of the sink I m talking about thats all for your help,

What I wanted to know is as you can see I installed vent on upper right
I need to know if the distance from that vent is code as it is going to be inspected. I thought 4 " was required from that vent to the trap

Thanks so much
George
 

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SewerRatz

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Here is Pictures of the sink I m talking about thats all for your help,

What I wanted to know is as you can see I installed vent on upper right
I need to know if the distance from that vent is code as it is going to be inspected. I thought 4 " was required from that vent to the trap

Thanks so much
George

I think the vent is the least of your worries. I will just let the others post how to fix that. Also you might want to enter the contest they hold on the forums here. I would normally post how to fix this but I just picked up a service call.

Good luck, we all are counting on you.
 

Kingsotall

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Cut out all the pipes except for the horizontal coming out of the wall and start over. You are using fittings inappropriately. I understand that you are offsetting the AAV for the pop-up assembly.

Also the steel braided flex supply lines should be replaced with ordinary steel braided supply's. They fail or activate and need to be reset depending on oyur house pressure or water hammer issues and are just a big pain in the you know what.

The following is a quote from one of our members, Redwood:

Watts Floodsafe?

Trust me you need to avoid these like the plague!

They are prone to false trips when the pressure is borderline high, they also will not activate for any leak short of a burst hose which considering they are on a No-Burst hose is ridiculous.

The Floodsafe supplies for dishwashers, toilets and faucets also have a weakness where the 3/8" compression connection meets the Floodsafe valve that has on several occasions that I know of has failed causing extensive water damage to a home...

I'm not sure if the icemakers have this weakness but they are also prone to false trips...

For some time I have been posting telling people to avoid Watts Floodsafe supplies for Toilets, Faucets, Icemakers, Dishwashers, and Washing Machines.

I have been posting telling of how I had a customer have one break at the compression connector to the Floodsafe Valve connection point causing a lot of water damage to his home.

The day I did that job I did not have a camera with me to get a picture of the evidence. The Floodsafe Supply was not installed by me as I was already avoiding them because of the nuisance trips that are fairly well known to happen with them. The supply was retained by the customer as evidence.

Recently a person seeing one of my posts on this connection failure E-Mailed me photo's of the same thing happening at his house. A Watts Floodsafe Dishwasher Supply failed at the same connection that I was talking about. The connector was not over tightened, 1/3 of a turn with the wrench and the compression connector was turning by hand, pressure was 70 PSI. the valve just blew apart on it's own flooding the house and causing about $25K in damage maybe higher if the entire wood floor has to come up or, just the kitchen portion.

In his own words, "I think the valve was poorly manufactured or damaged during manufacture. Like I said before, no freeze, no physical damage I could see. Just blew all by itself. Bury Watts all you want, this product is crap."

Here is a picture of the failed connector. Note how the connection between the compression fitting and the safety valve is where the failure occurred. This left the compression fitting on the stop valve spraying water while the safety valve blew off.


redwood_floodsafe5.jpg
 
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GMrules

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Ok thks I will pull out the flood safe no worries but how do I plumb the drain than I am lost, I never this before and this was the only way I would get them to line up.

I am very open to suggestions. Thanks for setting me straight I do appreciate it

George
 

hj

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drain

That AAV does NOTHING to vent the trap, and if any inspector approved that setup he would be incompetent, or worse. You have pieces of the trap installed backwards and upside down. You need to completely restructure the drain system, but unfortunately, you have glued things together in such a way that it will be VERY difficult to redo it.
 

Cwhyu2

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Ok thks I will pull out the flood safe no worries but how do I plumb the drain than I am lost, I never this before and this was the only way I would get them to line up.

I am very open to suggestions. Thanks for setting me straight I do appreciate it

George

Is the pipe coming out of the wall vented?If it is install a trap adapter on the
stubb and a P-Trap with slip joint extension tube from your pop up.
 

GMrules

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its UN-Vented

I spoke to person in HD and have an option, I am going to cut it out and re-do based on suggestions I have, I also bought a book and will be reading it. Obviously I need to do that LOL

I will post picture before I glue it up to see if its right and Bought the new supply lines w/o the flood safe
 

GMrules

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What about this is what HD suggested


Add onto the 1 1/2 pipe coming out of the wall then


AAV Tail Piece to Sink
| |
Wall -- Pipe--- Tee------- P - trap
 

GMrules

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after I get some answer I will post

I am glad everyone got as laugh at my expense including me, now how do I do it right

at least I tried
 

Kingsotall

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You might want to get a plumber as I see that bottom of your cabinet needing to be cutout as low as the connection in the wall is. The p-trap will be really low as a result and a cutout in the cabinet may be required. Getting plumbing advice from HD is like getting medical advice from a hobo. lol
 

GMrules

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Last Try

Flame Suit ON

Tried one last time tell me if this is ok and will pass Inspection

Added Flex Tail piece, I coiuld not move the cabinet enough to line it up
 

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