Raising the pressure decreases the number of gallons the tank can hold/deliver before the pumps comes on again, which won't provide proper cooling time for the motor in many cases, which is the primary cause of pump failure. Not setting the air pressure in the pressure tank correctly is the primary cause of 'bladder' type tank failures; especially when the water pressure has been increased without increasing the air pressure.
To me, "empty" means devoid of, containing none etc. etc.. If you have zero psi on the pressure gauge and yet the tank and water lines above its elevation are full of water, you can not get the proper volume of air into the tank. So the air pressure says you got it right but the volume is wrong so eventually the bladder is stretched more than it is supposed to be. That incorrect air is the primary cause of bladder failures.
The water in the pipes weighs .433 lbs per foot of elevation. One story is referred to as 10', and that would rob 10*.433= 4.33 psi from the proper air pressure per story up to the highest fixture in the house.
You get one chance to do the right thing the first time and it usually takes longer to something right than not.... if you've already screwed things up, that usually costs much more time, effort and money than taking the time to do whatever right the first time. You are seriously short cycling your pump motor and over extending/stretching the tank's bladder. Which has shortened the life of the pump and tank.
High pressure also can easily cause high velocity corrosion damage to copper tubing; if it is 8ft/sec or above.
If it were me, 30/50 with 29-28 psi air pressure after draining the tank. And at that time I'd flush it too.
All that to be able to powerwash yer butt....