Screw through ABS pipe :-(

stern_howie · Apr 19, 2009

Hello,

A Clogged toilet toilet (now clear) has brought me to a spot in the wall downstairs where upon removing a piece of drywall exposes a screw through the 3" ABS pipe.

I picked up a 3" coupling but before I do any cutting etc. I am looking for any tips. Obviously fitting a coupling to pipes before they are installed is a lot easier than installing in to a pipe already in place.

I don't think the pipe has got much play from side-to-side....I've put together ABS before so I am familiar with the adhesive etc. it's the cutting of the pipe to fit the coupling I am stuck on.

thanks for any help.

Jadnashua · Apr 19, 2009

One possibility is to use a repair coupling...this is one that doesn't have a ridge in the middle of it. Then, cut it so you part is about 190-200 degrees or so - large enough to be able to snap over the pipe, but still have some clamping capability. Then, slobber it with glue and snap it in place.

Sponsor · 2022-01-29T12:20:58-0800

stern_howie · Apr 19, 2009

thanks jadnashua, here's the rub...I can't get the screw out of the existing pipe (and oh how I tried). It seems as though part of the blockage is caught on the screw inside. So I don't think your method will help....I think I need a cutting solution.

TedL · Apr 19, 2009

I'd seriously consider using a banded no-hub coupling like the Pro-Flex:

http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/shielded-couplings/proflex-couplings.

Cut pipe at the screw , remove SS band from coupling, get neoprene into place on one side, fold back over itself and move other pipe into place; flip neoprene back onto second pipe; push together; reinstall SS band. Softsoap or dish detergent lube might make sliding onto pipe easier.

Redwood · Apr 19, 2009

I have done it as Jadnashua described...

Get soe pliers on that screw and pull as you turn it.
There are no threads left to jack it out of the hole.

Cut the ABS slip coupling as shown below...

stern_howie · Apr 19, 2009

thank you for your replies. TedL, are you suggesting not using the stainless steel shield that comes with the pro flex?

Redwood / Jadnashua regarding your method, I only saw the coupling with the ridge at Home Depot, I guess I'll have to look around a bit for one like that. Also in your photo Redwood, that looks like a PVC coupling...I'm assuming they make ABS no ridge ones? I'pulled/twisted on that screw but because there is something on it insided the pipe it won't come through. :-(

Gardner · Apr 19, 2009

I really thing the screw needs to come out. Otherwise it will be creating an obstruction.

You might be able to get away with a section of hub cut from a regular coupling. This would make a much narrower patch, but might be okay.

You will find the black ABS part if you look around. Try a real plumbing supply instead of HD.

stern_howie · Apr 19, 2009

yeah I know gardner....I'm going to drill a small hole next to the screw and try and clear the obstruction off of it, hopefully I can then get it out. I'd already thought I might be able to cut down the ridged coupling and apply that.

Will post back when done with the results.

Redwood · Apr 19, 2009

Pull while turning...

Yes the photo is of a pvc slip coupling but ABS is available too.

boulder_deb · Apr 19, 2009

oye - seems to be a trend today - mechanical fasteners thru plumbing. I sent a nail thru my copper - sure wish it was PVC. I'd feel a lot more qualified than I do with copper.

Good luck to you.

TedL · Apr 20, 2009

stern_howie said:
thank you for your replies. TedL, are you suggesting not using the stainless steel shield that comes with the pro flex?
(

Absolutely not. That's why I wrote "Reinstall SS band" after everything else is in position. You must have just blown past it.

Cass · Apr 20, 2009

I have removed the screw and heated a butter knife or similar and melted the hole shut...I have yet to have a call back...

Redwoods way will work well and so will a banded coupling coupling...I use the heated knife method when there is drywall hugging both sides of the PVC and the repair would leave a bulge in the drywall...

hj · Apr 20, 2009

repair

YOu do not need the coupling without a ridge. Just cut the coupling in half and use the piece which does not have a ridge. Cut that piece almost, but not exactly, in half and snap the larger of the two pieces around the pipe, and over the hole, after applying cement to both surfaces.

Cacher_Chick · Apr 20, 2009

If getting the screw out is becoming that much of a challenge, drilling over the existing screw with a small hole saw would make quick work of removing it. The hole has to be fixed anyway.

Kingsotall · Apr 20, 2009

cacherchick, wouldn't want to leave a burred edge in pipe that would allow crap (no pun intended) to get caught up and cause blockages down the road. If he can get away with just a screw hole in the pipe that would be the best case scenario. I like your tenacity though! Git R Done!

hj · Apr 21, 2009

hole

It would have to be a VERY ragged edge to trap material falling down a vertical pipe, but after making the hole larger, just rub the inside to remove any burrs. But the screw will either unscrew or pull out with the proper amount of force.

stern_howie · Apr 24, 2009

Thanks jadnashua & TedL I used your method for fixing the problem...I cut the ridged cupling above the ridge and used that to patch. Now this weekend I have to fix the drywall. I have that <ahem> covered.

thanks again everyone.

hj · Apr 25, 2009

credit

You gave the credit to one person who advised cutting the pipe and using a NoHub coupling, and another who suggested a repair coupling which you would probably have never found. It seems you used neither suggestion.

Screw through ABS pipe :-(

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