Repair short stubbed supply valve

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deethib

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I would appreciate some advice on a problem I am facing:
kitchen sink water supply valve,compression type.
It developed a leak after 1 year.I tightened the nut,it got worse.Tried a new ferrule, no improvement.
Long story short, I think I overtightened the compression nut as the Cu tubing( 1/2") now has a slight palpable depression - I think where the ferrule sits.
the stub in the cabinet is about 1 1/2" long coming out of the wall.
Way I see it I have several bad options:
cut off a bit Cu tubing and try a new compression type valve.Now I am really in bad shape as far as pipe stub length is concerned
2 try to solder on a threaded adapter
working against the wooden cabinet wall :<

Any good suggestions?

many thanks
Dietmar
 

Ian Gills

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I had this problem and I carefully did the following. But in situations like this you should really seriously consider calling a plumber. It reminds both them and us what they get paid for.

1.5 inches is still quite a good stub? You might be able to carefully cut the pipe before the dimple with a hacksaw blade leaving enough room for another compression stop.

I had about an inch to work with so if this is not possible:

1) Learn how to solder. Stop now if this is your first time and call a plumber. You will only get one shot at this because the stub is so small.

2) Keep a fire extinguisher nearby or bucket of water.

3) outside of the cabinet, solder a coupling on to a piece of pipe to bring the stub out to where you want it.

4) Go under the cabinet and solder the other end of the coupling onto the pipe stub. Careful, careful, careful. Use just enough heat to get the job done. You do not want to burn the house down. It's a risky job.

I also soldered a threaded nipple onto my pipe extension and now use screw-on shut-offs. Apply three wraps of teflon tape and then a layer of pipe dope before screwing on the valve. Solder the nipple on outside the cupboard if you want one of these.

Note: do most of your soldering outside of the cupboard and only go under to make the final connection.

Make sure the short pipe stub does not slide back into the wall at any time during the process.

You should also try to buy a fireproof mat (available at any shop) which you should be able to slip over the pipe to be soldered to protect the wood behind. Cut the mat to make a small hole in it to push the stub through. Again, make sure the short pipe stub does not slide back into the wall.

Don't point the torch at the wooden cabinet wall. Point it at the pipe.

Remember your water will be off when you do this, so you must have lots of water ready before you do the job in case you start a fire.

And now all the real plumbers on here start posting pictures of house fires...
 
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Redwood

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300px-Chicago-fire1.jpg


Like this one... Chicago 1871
Blamed on a cow but that is just a cover story...
DIYer plumbing....:eek:

LOL

You did a pretty good job of explaining it Ian...

Be real careful, sometimes walls can have drafts that suck the flame in.
Cool gel, fire matt, water spray bottle, and fire extinguisher are all in my soldering kit...

They are next to me every time the torch lights.

cool-gel.jpg
 
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deethib

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short stub

thank you Ian for sharing your own experience.Very much appreciated.
I had the same thoughts,probably can try another compression valve.But if that leaks I am up a creek :<

Your comments are also sweat reminders, yes the water will be off and the garden hose nearby is useless, still a bucket of water should probably take care of anything in front of us ...
 

Redwood

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Check the edits in my post above.
Not just a bucket...
A fire extinguisher....

23calif-600.jpg
 
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Redwood

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I have NH Masters duct tape helmet in hand...
ready for him so his head won't explode....:eek:
 

Iminaquagmire

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Brasscraft PushConnect valves only require 1" of pipe to fit on. As long as the o-ring doesn't land in the deformation from the ferrule, it should work.. Or if you're going to go to the trouble of soldering a coupler on, why not just solder a new valve on?
 
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