Well Pump questions

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Alasdair

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I have recently bought some land in Canada with a well already drilled on it.
The well is 99ft deep has 6" casing to 20ft and a water level at 12ft.
The flow rate is 6gpm.
I want to install a pitless adapter and pump myself.
I would like to have a pressure tank and switch at a later date (when I have built a house to put it in) but be able to turn the pump on and off manually for a water source during the build.
What pump and fittings (downpipe, joints/valves) would you recommend?
thanks
Al
 

Speedbump

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I wouldn't do that without the tank and pressure switch.

Just as sure as we are typing here, someone will turn on the pump and forget to turn it off, or put a hose on it with a squeezie handle throw the handle on the ground, forget it and poof goes your pump.

bob...
 

Alasdair

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a good point - so assuming I install the whole system and temporarily house it in a shed or something what would you recommend regarding set up?
I am looking to build a 1 1/2 Bath, 3 Bedroom 1 1/2 storey house with daylight basement. I would go for a 40/60 switch system. The house will be around 30 ft from the well and water will need to be lifted around 30ft above the well's static level. If I set the pump at 80 ft deep I am reckoning that the pump will need to deliver a pressure of around 250 ft head minimum.
An internet search tells me that peak demand for a normal 1 1/2 bathroom house will be around 10gpm. As this exceeds the recovery rate of my well I would like to use a large pressure tank to meet this potential peak demand. The well has around 90gallons if the pump is set at 80ft.
I am thinking I would like to go with either a 5 or 7 gpm 1/2 hp pump and as large a tank as I can afford at the time.
Can you advise as to the pros and cons of these pumps. What brand?
Thanks again,
Al
 

Gary Slusser

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From another forum where I answered this with:

Alasdair, the higher operating pressure, the more water you use and waste is greater. I suggest 30/50, it is the norm.

Your 99' - 10 to set the pump at 10' off the bottom = 89'-12' static level =77' of water and a 6" well gives you 1.47 gal/ft = 113 gallons of water with the 6 gpm recovery rate. I would size the pump to pump from a water level of 90' and give you more than 10 gpm.

I sell water treatment equipment and it all has to be sized for the peak demand of the house as to how the family uses water in the number of bathrooms AND the type of fixtures in them. I sell for houses that have a 20 gpm shower alone! Large tubs can flow at 9-12 gpm, alone. So I do not agree with 10 gpm peak unless you do not have any large tubs or two person or body spray showers and won't in the future. My equipment records the highest gpm run through it each of the last 7 days and then, the highest gpm ever run through it; I've not been told I have been wrong on their peak demand yet, out of 1200 sales of that control valve.

Without looking it up, I'd suggest a 230 vac 15 gpm 1/2 hp submersible set at 89' on 160 psi rated 1" PE pipe and a dovetail type pitless adapter and the same PE pipe to the pressure tank.

You do not need a large tank, and thinking about it, you can't use a large tank to make up for a low producing well. Every drop of water used is then taken from the well all at once to refill the tank. And at 40/60 your draw down of the tank happens quicker so the pump runs more frequently and often. What 'extra' water do you get from the well?

I suggest a small tank and a CSV (Cycle Stop Valve) which provides constant pressure and doesn't refill the tank until you stop using water.

Do not buy a pump or tank from a big box store, they are low quality, a pump guy will have much better quality.
 

Speedbump

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I agree with Gary on the pump size and the fact that if you hang the pump near the bottom, you will have more water to use. The largest Bladder Tank made only holds around 40 gallons and would cost you over $600.00 or more.
You can look at pump curves at my Submersible Pump Page. Your looking for 10 gpm at around 180 feet of head. That would be the 3/4hp 10 gallon per minute pump or the BF-1010. You can also read about Cycle Stop Valves there.

bob...
 
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kjgospel

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my pump will only pump for 5 sec then stops

I have a submerged pump that will not maintain pressure. I have replaced the pressure switch, the tank, which had a ruptured bladder and the pump controller box. When I turn on the power, the pump will pum water for about 5 seconds and then I hear the control box rattle and the pump stops and the control box hums. I turn off the power and wait 5 minutes and it will repeat the process. Have I got a bad pump?
This is my first time on hrer
 

Thatguy

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the control box rattle and the pump stops and the control box hums. I turn off the power and wait 5 minutes and it will repeat the process. Have I got a bad pump?
This is my first time on hrer
If the pump current draw drops when the pump stops it's very likely a high resistance connection somewhere. I think the rattle is a control box relay armature buzzing. If you can post a diagram of wiring and lengths and wiring access points this should be easy to troubleshoot. Also, a link to the make and model of your pump/elec. system.
 
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