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Thread: p-trap

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    DIY Junior Member jdanilovich's Avatar
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    Default p-trap

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    I build vanities like this. My contractor called me and said they have to cut the bottom out of top box for p-trap. My box behind doors is 16 1/2'' from top of vanity to top of shelve. They are using 7'' under mount sink I think. Is there anyway around cutting the shelve out to accommodate the p-trap. These usually go in new homes. Can they rough in different? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

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    DIY Senior Member Reach4's Avatar
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    http://www.keeneymfg.com/cad_drawings/41-P-Traps has various dimensional drawings. To keep things smaller, they can us a 1-1/4 instead of a 1-1/2 inch trap. Add a bit of space for the tail piece. I would think it would vary how flat=bottomed the sink bottom is as to how much tailpiece would be needed. Will you need to leave clearance to remove and insert the trap? Or can you make the compartment bottom lift out for easier maintenance. Name:  huge2.png
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    DIY Junior Member jdanilovich's Avatar
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    Good suggestion on a false bottom. Will try and figure out if it can be done. If you had this job can it be done? I know you needmore info and probably needs to be seen on site. My vanity is 34.5 high then they put countertop on in a new house. Can they adjust where pipe comes out wall? I do not know anything about plumbing. Thank you for helping me out

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    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdanilovich View Post
    Good suggestion on a false bottom. Will try and figure out if it can be done. If you had this job can it be done? I know you needmore info and probably needs to be seen on site. My vanity is 34.5 high then they put countertop on in a new house. Can they adjust where pipe comes out wall? I do not know anything about plumbing. Thank you for helping me out
    Not once the drywall goes up. You might say it's set in stone after that.
    I hope this is for a bathroom, and not a kitchen. There would be lilttle space with a disposer.
    For a bathroom, with a 34.5" height before counter, most roughs would be too low if you have the lower end of the box so low.

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    DIY Senior Member Reach4's Avatar
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    Removable panel will decrease rigidity, but your unit looks strong. Figure the pipe thru the wall is centered about 18 inches off of the floor. It is not always that, but it seems to me that you should not have to handle all possibilities.

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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    With the trap hanging through it, a "removable panel" would not be very removable. Depending on "where" the trap impacts the shelf, you might be able to drill two holes and let the trap stick up through them. The dimension from the top of the sink to the shelf, and even the depth of the sink is completely irrelevant; What counts is the height of the drain pipe in the wall, MINUS the drop to the bottom of the trap, usually 5" to 6", depending on the manufacturer. This dimension can only be changed by altering the drain line inside the wall.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

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    DIY Senior Member Reach4's Avatar
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    How much space would need to be added under the trap to allow potential removal for cleaning at some point. Would an extra half inch typically be enough, or would that take an inch?

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