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Thread: Sawzall

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  1. #1
    Senior Robin Hood Guy Ian Gills's Avatar
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    Default Sawzall

    It looks like I am going to need one of these to cut through old metal window frames to get them out.

    Any recommendations on a tool for the job or will any do?

    Big? Small? Cordless? Wired?

    What blades?

    All tips most gratefully received.

    I want one that makes cutting as easy as drilling holes in concrete with a rotary hammer drill.
    Last edited by Ian Gills; 04-08-2009 at 11:34 AM.

  2. #2
    Geologist sjsmithjr's Avatar
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    Default

    I have three reciprocating saws in my box. An 18v cordless DeWalt, a 15 amp corded Milwaukee Super, and an old corded Black & Decker with a saber grip. The Black & Decker only gets used when the saber grip makes the job easier, which isn't very often.

    I've had the DeWalt for about four years now I think. Great for when a cordless tool is the best option. Will "cook" a battery if you let the charge get to low and try to push the tool. Run time is pretty low if you are working the tool hard. The tool of choice for putting a fresh cut on the Christmas tree every year. The wife occasionally uses it to prune trees. A medium duty tool.

    The Milwaukee Super is a beast of a tool that strikes fear in the hearts of carpenters everywhere. In other words, you can do some serious demo work with it. I've used it to cut cement block and concrete embedded with rebar. Highly recommended.

    Both the DeWalt and the Milwaukee Super will cost you about the same. If I could only have one, I'd buy the Milwaukee.

    I like Lennox Gold blades for most jobs. If I need a carbide coated blade I usually go with a Bosch.
    Last edited by sjsmithjr; 04-08-2009 at 12:29 PM.
    -Sam Smith
    Licensed Professional Geologist - AL, TN, KY

  3. #3
    Senior Robin Hood Guy Ian Gills's Avatar
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    Default

    Thanks. I'll try to find a Milwaukee Super 15 amp then.

    What blades would you recommend for cutting stubborn metal window frames?

    The carbide ones?

  4. #4
    Extreme DIY Homeowner Scuba_Dave's Avatar
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    I saw the window thread
    I was thinking it might be easier to leave the frame in & secure the new windows to the frame (from the inside)
    Then caulk & seal
    DIY Handyman (not 4 hire)
    I have enough to do to my own house

  5. #5
    Jack of all trades frenchie's Avatar
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    Milwaukee's the right choice.

    There's blades specifically for steel (fine toothed instead of rough).

    Pretty sure they're just regular bi-metal (steel & cobalt), I haven't bothered with the fancy blades before.
    Master Plumber Mark:

    there is nothing better than the
    manly smell of WD 40 in the air
    while banging away on brass with a chisel and hammer...

    it smells like......victory......

    do not hit your thumb...
    __________________
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  6. #6
    Jack of all trades frenchie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scuba_Dave View Post
    I saw the window thread
    I was thinking it might be easier to leave the frame in & secure the new windows to the frame (from the inside)
    Then caulk & seal
    How would you secure the new to the frame?

    Besides, this way Ian has an excuse to buy a new toy.
    Master Plumber Mark:

    there is nothing better than the
    manly smell of WD 40 in the air
    while banging away on brass with a chisel and hammer...

    it smells like......victory......

    do not hit your thumb...
    __________________
    Just so everyone's clear: I'm the POODLE in the picture ("french", get it?) The hot woman is my wife.

  7. #7
    Extreme DIY Homeowner Scuba_Dave's Avatar
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    Default

    The basement windows I bought had a large frame going around the edges. Drill & screw

    But hey, a new tool works
    DIY Handyman (not 4 hire)
    I have enough to do to my own house

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