Tub suggestions?

[gdunbar]

I recently ordered the toilet that Terry suggests. CAn't wait. But I'd also like a suggestion for a tub. 5 footer, with skirt. Had to pullout a cast iron, man it was too heavy, even after I smashed the crap out of it. I am looking at this Americast thing, for weights sake. But I just wonder what keeps it from moving around? There is no direct mounting to studs, other than some Roofing nail at the lip of the flange, but does not pierce it. I would love to have the real Cast iron thing, but at 300lbs, I have no idea how I could move it in. And width in the room is barely over 5 feet. Ideas? Thanks
g
plumbers must have some system for installing these things.? flat dollies? Ropes? helicopter?

[jadnashua]

The key to making a non-cast iron tub feel substantial is to smush it down into a layer of wet mortar or plaster. This fully supports the bottom, helps prevent stress fractures, and also helps to hold it in place (some). There has been discussions on which tubs are good here before...try out the search function and you'll come up with numerous discussions to check out.

[Terry]

When I install cast iron tubs, it takes two people to carry it upstairs.

I leave the tub in the crate until it's in the bathroom.

I stand it up near the faucet end and let the back end drop down toward the back. It will catch the long wall as it drops.
Using 2x4's and a small block, I can lift from under the tub, prying it up where needed. Pretty much, the weight of the tub does most of the work.
It's not that hard.

[gdunbar]

terry, tell me if I got this right...
If I rough out the area 60 inches long at studs, I can roll in the tub , lower it down, it will hit the studs, and if I pry up the other end it will rock itself down? Without breaking studs?? No stairs involved. I think I've convinced myself cast is best, its just going to be hard to get in the car and in the room.
Is there some way to lay down skids it can rest on, incase I have to pull it out and correct something? maybe some 1x planks? Hate to get it in, then be stuck. thanks
geoff

[hj]

I put the tub on its apron in front of the space where it is going. If the sheetrock is not in place, then I just roll it down into position. If the sheetrock is in place you have to remove enough to be able to position the tub, then move it in at an angle until the corner is inside the walls between the studs, the rotate it square, and then roll it down into place. This way it is a one man job without breaking your back. Removing one is the same process in reverse.

[BeachBum]

I'm in a similar situation or will be very soon. I have a downstairs bath, approx. 5' x 9', door on the narrow end with the tub accross the opposite narrow end. I have a new 5' skirted cast iron tub still in the crate that will have to go in in a week or so. The room is gutted to the studs with a new plywood subfloor. As you look at the room from the doorway, the plumbing wall is to the right. I have limited access to the backside of the tub area as it is under a stairway. So you're saying is I can wheel the tub in on the drain end, uncrate it, lean the foot end against the wall to the left and lever the drain end along the floor until it's in place? Is there enough room for the corner of the skirt to pass between the studs and not hit the farside wall? Won't the corner of the skirt at the drain end dig into the floor? This sounds too easy.

Kurt

[plumguy]

It is tight but it will go! When you are letting the drain end down just make sure you are gipping the tub in a spot that won't crush your'e fingers against the studs as you lower it . You will have to adjust the other end as go but it will lower in place.

[gdunbar]

It seems mathmatically impossible, but I will soon find out. Tub arrives today, and hope to install Friday as they suggest. Ended up paying $65 to HD for them to deliver to curb. I can dolly it in, but then it gets harry.