I saw my first epoxy plumbing joint on copper yesterday.
I was able to pull the joint apart by hand. It's a good thing this was only on a water heater relief line.
the copper DWV always overlapped the iron, and dont forget the brass era. Great pickings for a guy living in a shopping cart around old detroit neighborhoods.
Some rich imbeciles still use copper waste around here. Whats the SS dwv era? Nuclear power plants?
The only heat weld I know of in the USA is polyethlene in large sizes. But in parts of Europe all the DWV and supply is something like pvc where the joints are fit with heat guns. No fumes and no liquid dripping around the place.
I think some unions in the big [read;mafia] cities still use cast iron, which is nice since its quiet, but whats the point when its held together with rubber and clamps?
quote; I beg to differ, with all due respect for your long experience. A compression connection can fail catastrophically if installed improperly. If overtightened, the pipe can be crimped beyond use and will need to be cut short. At the wall, you cannot shorten it without tearing up the wall. It is also non-replaceable for the same reason.
Does my 60+ years of experience impress you? In that time I have installed "thousands" of compression stops and have NEVER had one 'blow off". I cannot even visualize HOW it could happen, unless the line froze and that pressure pushed it off, and if so, it would have damaged ANY other type of connection also. You may prefer plastic, but I would NEVER use it to stub out to the angle stops, (even if you used it in the walls, which I have not done either so far).
Licensed residential and commercial plumber
I have confidence in compression stops but, we don't use them. We don't use them because I like installing things that the average homeowner cant mess with so we solder the valves on. For the hack crowd though, you can now get them with sharkbite push on fittings LOL
[B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]
Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.
Cyber Security Protection for Windows C:\ > WWW.WinForce.Net
I only solder valves on copper...never use compression ones....u guys keep referring to them possibly dripping but not blowing off - ive never had a soldered valve DRIP or blow off - does that trump your dripping compression connection? ...
back to the subject... we tested some copper epoxy once in trade school, following the directions to a t --- clean pipe and fitting, make sure pipe and fitting are CLEAN - no dust or oils or water etc - apply epoxy to pipe (and fitting??...was years ago), rotate 360 degree and allow to harden for minimum 24hrs.....the resulting contraption we made stood up to very high pressure tests and pushing pulling etc....that being said I would still NEVER use it......I couldn't imagine trying to duplicate all the perfect conditions for a proper joint with that stuff on a job site on every fitting....plus the 24hr cure time is a crucial factor.
I use Dahl stops too - only sweat connection....also Brass Craft for multi-turn...I use as many Canadian made products as possible - if they are quality.