Kitchen drain adjustments to reduce water

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Indyshawn

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Hi all -

New to the forum and looking for some advice. I've replaced the kitchen sink and installed a new garbage disposal. I now need to reroute the drain lines to accomodate the different heights (sinks are deeper than previous, disposal is larger). My current setup is in the photo. The problem is the amount of water in the lines (painted as blue in the picture). I'm wondering if I shorten the red drain line, would that reduce the amount of standing water in the lines? Ideally, I'd like to just have water in the trap area. Also, if I shorten the red drain pipe, I'd be able to do a direct feed from the disposal (depicted by green line).

Am I thinking along the right lines?

Any advice is appreciated!!
 

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Redwood

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Oh my goodness...
That certainly looks like a new world record for trap depth to me...

You certainly do want to shorten the red part and a lot of the blue part as well. It would be really nice if the red part extended through the roof for a vent or, at least had an AAV on it... (Redwood bites down hard on his tongue drawing blood after saying the AAV word...)
 

Redwood

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The final configuration of the red portion of your drain could possibly be done like the picture below. (AAV's are not allowed under all codes and are a poor substitute for a through the roof vent. Check with your local building inspection department.)

s-trapp-trapconversion.jpg


I would work on the rest of the drain before doing the red portion so that it may be plumbed at the right height.

Spin the disposer so that it points directly at the other sink drain.

Pick up 2 - 1 1/2" X 16" double flanged tailpieces like the one pictured below.

754666.jpg


Also pick up a 1 1/2" center outlet continuous waste waste kit pictured below.

559666.jpg


Put one of the tailpieces on the basket strainer and the other on the outlet of the disposer. Trim the other ends off as needed. The basket strainer one will go into the 90 degree elbow arm of the center outlet cont. waste and the disposer tailpiece will go horizontally directly into the cont. waste center outlet tee.

From the bottom of the tee you go directly into the P-trap like this one and now you should have a bit of extra room between the p-trap and the red portion of the drain. You now know the correct height to install the red portion of the drain.

503666.jpg


Kaabeesh?
 
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Indyshawn

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Thanks for the input Redwood. So if I'm understanding correctly, you suggest I shorten that red section and I should raise the trap section as well?

I'm a bit confused by your last statement though, about extending through the roof and the AAV? Also in the first photo, the red section seems to have been purposefully extended from the pipe base coming through the cabinet floor - so I'm wondering what the purpose might be behind having the main pipe at its current height and will I be causing more of a problem by cutting it shorter?

I'll be tackling this over the weekend and will upload a photo of the final result.
 
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Indyshawn

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ah, thanks again for the posts above! - didn't see those until I'd added my second reply :)
 

Redwood

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Yes the outlet of the trap is a set depth and should not be altered.
The use of a center outlet cont. waste tee will give you some extra room which you need for the trap outet.
Also the venting is needed.
 

Indyshawn

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Thanks for posting the images and explanation - all makes sense and will be very helpful! Still unsure about the AAV though, as it was not part of the plumbing previously (house is just a few years old - in Indiana - and had double sinks with a disposal previously also)? Is this necessary because the drain goes through the floor rather than the wall?
 

hj

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drain

I am not sure how that drain was EVER approved because "S" traps have been outlawed for at least 6 decades. DO NOT use a center outlet waste. Keep the one you have, because the trap will rotate to make the connection to the lower drain line.
 

Indyshawn

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Thanks HJ - so what would be the potential problem caused by a center outlet waste? I'm also not understanding your comment about an 'S' trap - I thought I currently have a 'P' trap only.
 

Gary Swart

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Nope, that's a very obvious S trap. This is why there are codes and inspectors to enforce them.
 

Indyshawn

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Thanks Gary - so would you agree with the recommendations that Redwood made, or do you see a problem with a center outlet waste like HJ mentioned?

Thanks again!
 

Jadnashua

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To be a properly installed P-trap, the outlet arm of the trap must go into a pipe with a vertical vent component before or at the same time as it allows the waste to go down. Yours goes down and, presumably gets vented downstream, if at all. So, if you follow the drain, it goes around the trap as part of an S, then completes the other half as it goes down.
 

Indyshawn

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update

Just wanted to post a couple pics of my progress - I have the center outlet waste and the p-trap cut to length and dry fitted. I'll cut the main drain pipe tomorrow to a height that will allow the sanitary tee to attach to the ptrap (as shown in redwood's diagram). I need to pick up those pieces tomorrow as well as the AAV from Lowes. I'm feeling much better about this approach than what I had going previously!
 

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Cwhyu2

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Thanks Gary - so would you agree with the recommendations that Redwood made, or do you see a problem with a center outlet waste like HJ mentioned?

Thanks again!
End outlet waste is the way to go.That tee has no baffle and can cause
waste to go from the desposer to your other sink.Once you cut the waste pipe you can rotate to fit an end outlet waste.
 

Redwood

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Looks pretty much like I imagined.
Make sure that the tee has a baffle in it to prevent the disposer from making a geyser in the other sink..
See how the center outlet gives you some room for the trap.
The tees with the baffle usually come as part of a kit like I pictured.
 

SewerRatz

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To add a picture to what a loop vent is here you go. Which is the way we have to do it here in Illinois since AAV's are not allowed. Thank you Cougfan for pointing that out.

islandvent.jpg
 
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Redwood

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Ther you go...
If you are in Ill. you have some venting work to do as AAV's are not allowed.
 
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