Folks,
Hope you can help alleviate some concerns I have about my hot water heater.
Quick background--
Recently replaced dip tube, anode, drain valve...had lost dip tube and this work gave us full hot water again. One week later, yesterday, found water...TP valve had opened. Replaced it this a.m., but used a 125 psi one instead of the 150 psi since the hardware store only had 125 and 175.
Anyway, all back and running.
But, I added a pressure gauge to the drain and have been wondering if I have an issue.
First, the nominal pressure reading when using hot water is 50 lbs. Just after calling for hot water and turning off the faucet, it rose to 111 lbs.
I don't know if I have an open system or not, but there is an 'upside down cone' shaped brass fitting between the main valve and the water meter, I don't know if that's a pressure reducing valve or not, and I don't know if they and/or water meters all have check valves in them or not.
Also, I have an expansion tank that 'appears' to be tied into the system, but I'm not sure. It's approximately 1' diameter flextrol, that says WP 100 psi.
This tank is connected to a 'T' that also receives a 1/2" line from cold supply, and the 1 1/4" supply side line from our hot water radiator heating system.
So, would that tank actually be involved in controlling pressure from the hot water heater as well as radiator heat, and if it's only rated for 100 psi, and I know my water heater gets to 112, does it need to be replaced, or do I need a second expansion tank?
Also, if right now I've been living with 112 lb hot water pressure for 15 years, do I need to change my T/P valve to 150 lbs as was originally on tank, or is 125 lbs. likely to be fine. A spill wouldn't be catastrophic, just a nuisance!
Thanks again guys...can't tell you how great it is to have a forum like this...you've helped me build a bathroom and save thousands!
Okay, gotta check tank pressure!
Thanks again!
Doug in NJ
Hope you can help alleviate some concerns I have about my hot water heater.
Quick background--
Recently replaced dip tube, anode, drain valve...had lost dip tube and this work gave us full hot water again. One week later, yesterday, found water...TP valve had opened. Replaced it this a.m., but used a 125 psi one instead of the 150 psi since the hardware store only had 125 and 175.
Anyway, all back and running.
But, I added a pressure gauge to the drain and have been wondering if I have an issue.
First, the nominal pressure reading when using hot water is 50 lbs. Just after calling for hot water and turning off the faucet, it rose to 111 lbs.
I don't know if I have an open system or not, but there is an 'upside down cone' shaped brass fitting between the main valve and the water meter, I don't know if that's a pressure reducing valve or not, and I don't know if they and/or water meters all have check valves in them or not.
Also, I have an expansion tank that 'appears' to be tied into the system, but I'm not sure. It's approximately 1' diameter flextrol, that says WP 100 psi.
This tank is connected to a 'T' that also receives a 1/2" line from cold supply, and the 1 1/4" supply side line from our hot water radiator heating system.
So, would that tank actually be involved in controlling pressure from the hot water heater as well as radiator heat, and if it's only rated for 100 psi, and I know my water heater gets to 112, does it need to be replaced, or do I need a second expansion tank?
Also, if right now I've been living with 112 lb hot water pressure for 15 years, do I need to change my T/P valve to 150 lbs as was originally on tank, or is 125 lbs. likely to be fine. A spill wouldn't be catastrophic, just a nuisance!
Thanks again guys...can't tell you how great it is to have a forum like this...you've helped me build a bathroom and save thousands!
Okay, gotta check tank pressure!
Thanks again!
Doug in NJ