Bad Pump?

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1960 Rancher

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Well went to the Dept of Health to find records of the pump location and the only file they had was for another house with the address crossed out and mine written in. I told them that file is for the house in print and was on a street near my house. Pretty screwed up. They did have two old permits for the septic install and repair. So I'm at the point where I am going to try to find the well location my self and buy a new pump with foot valve/jet assembly and repair it myself. Where would be a good location to buy the pump and jet in MD?
 

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If you don't mind buying quality items off the Internet, you can but them from me at my signature link.

bob...
 

1960 Rancher

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^ at this point not sure what I have to buy. I assume i need the following items

1/2 HP Jet pump
Jet foot assembly
25 gal bladder tank

And may need;
New well cap?
Misc fittings for inhouse connection to bladder tank.

I think the shipping cost buying online for these items will be quite high...
 
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Speedbump

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You might be surprised. The savings on the components may more than pay for the shipping.

The well cap you are talking about is called a casing adaptor. You will need one for sure. Yours may be reusable.

bob...
 

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Currently looking local for pumps. Does anyone have any input on Dayton pumps? See below.

XL-2ZXU3.JPG


Item Convertible Jet Pump
HP 1/2
Voltage 115/230
Suction Pipe Size (In.) 1 1/4
NPT Outlet 1
Amps AC 8.7/4.35
Height (In.) 19
Length (In.) 15
Width (In.) 11
Tank PSI 30 50
GPM of Water @ 10 Ft @ 30, 50 PSI 14.0 7.6
GPM of Water @ 20 Ft @ 30, 50 PSI 9.8 5.9
GPM of Water @ 30 Ft @ 30, 50 PSI 10.9 5.4
GPM of Water @ 40 Ft @ 30, 50 PSI 9.0 3.7
GPM of Water @ 50 Ft @ 30, 50 PSI 7.4 2.3
GPM of Water @ 60 Ft @ 30, 50 PSI 5.4 3.2
GPM of Water @ 70 Ft @ 30, 50 PSI 4.4 2.5
GPM of Water @ 80 Ft @ 30, 50 PSI 3.2 1.6
GPM of Water @ 90 Ft @ 30, 50 PSI 2.4 0.8
GPM of Water @ 100 Ft @ 30, 50 PSI - -
GPM of Water @ 110 Ft @ 30,50 PSI - -
Shut Off (PSI) 69
Material of Construction Cast Iron
Motor Enclosure TEFC
Seal Type Carbon, Ceramic
Suction Lift (Ft.) 5
Includes Motor and Pressure Switch


Guess I need to determine the depth of my well prior to purchasing a pump? This one only looks like its good to 90ft.
 
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Speedbump

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Don't bet on it. That pump is a piece of junk. If it will lift more than humidity from 90 feet, I'll drink it.

bob...
 

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Yes I do. I should have put them on my website a long time ago. This is the performance chart for the SFH series. It's a convertable Jet pump. 1/2hp thru 1.5hp. This chart is for the Shallow well.
 

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1960 Rancher

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Here is the deep well jet curve.

So without pulling my well to determine the depth can I assume with an existing 1/2 HP Goulds pump that the depth is only around 60'? I would like to purchase the pump/injector to have on hand when I pull the well vs. pulling it twice. Thanks.
 

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With the setup you have now, if you ever had good pressure, assume the water level is less than 50'.

If I were replacing any pump on a small well, it would be at least a 1hp. One half horse pumps were the norm 40 years ago. But today water usage has quadrupled over 40 years ago, so larger pumps are the norm.

You might want to see what diameter your well is. Maybe you can go with a submersible.

bob...
 

1960 Rancher

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K, Does anyone have any experience with 50 yr old wells? the county has no records of original permit of well location and I have to start digging my yard up. Already dug up two holes 3 ft deep about 30ft out from where well pipes enter house with no luck. Any one with input on how far the well had to be from the house back in 1960? I live in MD.
 
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Speedbump

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I would think MD and Michigan have roughly the same frost line. When I was younger, my dad would send me out with a pick and shovel to find a well. They were all buried at least 4' deep and some were 6' plus.

The way to find one today is to use a Schoenstadt Locator. If you don't have one and can't beg, borrow or steal one, start digging at the nearest place outside the building where the pipe comes through the wall or out from under a crawl space. Dig down until you find the pipe then follow it until it ends. This will be the top of the well.

bob...
 

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You may find the well much closer to the house. Even today the minimum distance is something like 3'.

You might want to cut the lines and use a snake to see how long it goes 'til it stops, that usually is at a pitless adapter or an elbow on a sanitary well seal. Once you have a distance from teh house, I think you should go a bit deeper than 3'. I've found them up to 6' deep. Bob's thing is best but a metal detector could help.
 

1960 Rancher

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You may find the well much closer to the house. Even today the minimum distance is something like 3'.

You might want to cut the lines and use a snake to see how long it goes 'til it stops, that usually is at a pitless adapter or an elbow on a sanitary well seal. Once you have a distance from teh house, I think you should go a bit deeper than 3'. I've found them up to 6' deep. Bob's thing is best but a metal detector could help.

I thought about doing a fishtape and metal detector but doing so I will loose prime on the pump and have to re-prime correct? Without having water to prime would I have to run a hose from a neighbors house for water? I'm new to this stuff.
 

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They used to sell new 5 gal buckets in the paint dept of WalMart for $2. Fill it before you shut off the pump and cut the line. If you want to save money, fill a bathtub and use a bucket or pitcher you probably already have...

Should I open the 1-1/4 or the 1" line? I assume the 1-1/4" is the suction? Or is there a difference. to prime the pump I need to remove the gauge and fill till it overflows? So essentially I am filling the entire line with the saved water in the bucket down to the foot valve or just the pump body? I think I need some direction here.
 

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So I guess it does not make a difference which pipe I open I will still loose the return pipes water and will have to refill with bucket correct?
 
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