Recommend a Kitchen Drain and Strainer

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Tenderpaw

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Hi,

I need to replace the drains and strainers in my stainless kitchen sink and need a recommendation from the experts. I'd like something where the strainer/stopper works reliably and is easy to clean. I saw a Kohler drain and strainer at the orange big box store that had an o-ring seal on the strainer/stopper which looked pretty good. Everything else there looked cheap. And of course EVERYTHING was made in China.

Any recommendations?

Thanks,

Dave
 

SewerRatz

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I personally like the Spin-n-Grin strainers

spin-and-grin.jpg


As for the piping I would recommend the tubular chrome plated 17 gage brass.
 

Hcw3

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I need to replace the drains and strainers in my stainless kitchen sink and need a recommendation from the experts. I'd like something where the strainer/stopper works reliably and is easy to clean. I saw a Kohler drain and strainer at the orange big box store that had an o-ring seal on the strainer/stopper which looked pretty good.
Late response, I know, but at least the answer will be on the record for future searches.

I'm sorry to say I can't recommend the Kohler strainer - I've sworn by Kohler for years, but I think they blew it with this one.

After 2 years of use, I can't get it to seal well at all. The o-rings look to be in fine shape. I suppose they may have just hardened up however, and I plan to see if I can find some longer lasting ones.

I've found a strainer in my search that looks like a good design, with a positive locking mechanism:

The Jomar Snap-n-Lock (do a search).

snap-n-lock.jpg


https://www.markspp.com/Catalog/Detail/4305

I just might replace my Kohler drains with these, if I continue to have problems with the o-rings.

EDITED after trying the Jomar

The Snap n Loc is known for it's good seal, hoped it would seal better than the Kohler drains installed a few years ago. The Kohler uses a rubber o-ring which needs frequent replacement.

The Jomar:
- Easy to operate
- It seals very well, with a fat, soft, rubber gasket.
- The seal is incorporated into the basket, so the whole basket is replaced when the seal wears out.
- The basket is undersized within the drain, so there's a nearly 1/8" gap all around it, which lets food go down the drain.
- the metal body of the drain is very thin, relative to the Kohler drain. The Kohler is very thick (may be cast?)

Have used the Jomar for about six months now, and the rubber seal is already showing signs of failure. It seems it would need replacing as often as the o-ring on the Kohler, except I'd need to replace the whole basket. I'll (humbly) reinstall the Kohler.

Replacing the o-ring on the Kohler drains, bi-annually, is a better option.
 
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Chefwong

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The O Ring on my Duostrainer went missing/torn , etc - 6 months after my kitchen remodel.

It's been a good couple years since, and the strainer HOLDS water even without the O ring....
 

Bluebinky

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I've had good luck so far with the Kohlers (3 years so far). They seem to require that you keep everything very clean or they don't hold. The o-rings do look like a weak spot, though.
 

DIYPlumber90

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Late response, I know, but at least the answer will be on the record for future searches.

I'm sorry to say I can't recommend the Kohler strainer - I've sworn by Kohler for years, but I think they blew it with this one.

After 2 years of use, I can't get it to seal well at all. The o-rings look to be in fine shape. I suppose they may have just hardened up however, and I plan to see if I can find some longer lasting ones.

I've found a strainer in my search that looks like a good design, with a positive locking mechanism:

The Jomar Snap-n-Lock (do a search).

I just might replace my Kohler drains with these, if I continue to have problems with the o-rings.

Where can you pick these materials up good sir?
 

Paul Somlo

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Ya' think? I know it's an old post - was hoping that one of the original posters would see it and chime in.
 

Paul Somlo

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Thank you Terry! Maybe I could ask another question, without wearing out my welcome? Regarding double sinks and drain design: Is it better to have equal length runs off of each sink to the waste tee, or have one sink dropping straight down into the tee and the other sink running laterally to the tee? I'm removing a rusted out, leaking disposal and not replacing it. There's a double bowl stainless sink, with the waste in the wall pretty much centered between the two sinks. Also, is there any rule of thumb regarding tailpiece length?
 

Paul Somlo

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Got my "spin and grin" from Garvin - it's deceptively heavy for it's size.

Regarding tailpieces - does anyone make a plastic one without the baffle for the dishwasher (3/4" stub)? Or do I need to go with brass?
 

Reach4

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Regarding tailpieces - does anyone make a plastic one without the baffle for the dishwasher (3/4" stub)? Or do I need to go with brass?
p37026-3.jpg
They are pretty common. They don't usually come with the nut. I don't know if the nut is the same as is used with other slip joint stuff. I suspect it is.

The branch tailpieces come with a nut, because you could not get the nut on otherwise. Terry's picture in #13 shows a plastic tailpiece held on with a zinc nut.

branch-tailpiece-for-dw.jpg
 
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Paul Somlo

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p37026-3.jpg
They are pretty common. They don't usually come with the nut. I don't know if the nut is the same as is used with other slip joint stuff. I suspect it is.

The branch tailpieces come with a nut, because you could not get the nut on otherwise. Terry's picture in #13 shows a plastic tailpiece held on with a zinc nut.
I need the dishwasher connection - what I don't want is the baffle inside the pipe that reduces the diameter and is clog prone. I spoke to Keeney today, they don't make anything in plastic with a dishwasher connection that doesn't have the baffle. Apparently, the chrome ones don't have a baffle. I have heard of people cutting them out, I suppose that could be done.
 

Reach4

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Put my branch tailpiece in the lathe, used a long boring bar to cut out the baffle - problem solved.
Not many people could have done that.

Until this thread, I did not know that any plastic branch tailpieces have baffles, and had not thought about why I might not want baffles. Interesting thread.

What was your dislike of chrome-plated brass tailpieces-- durability in the face of acids? I know they sell those in the thicker 17 gauge as well as the cheaper 22 and 20 gauge.
 
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