Softner wants to regenerate every night

[sammyhydro11]

What the heck, just get the Fleck! Hey that should be their new slogan. What do you think?

sammy

www.tylerwellandpump.com

[Gary Slusser]

Biemech, I can't see how the computer is causing the increased torque or friction in an old or new seal or a new motor. I'd suspect a rotor bushing binding causing misalignment of the seal, or a cheap material type seal causing friction slowing the motor down only if the motor couldn't put out enough torque to overcome the friction or binding. Also, I thought there was a contact switch or two on a SEARS, GE, Whirlpool, North Star, mortonsalt.com and Ecowater control valves. If there is then the computer isn't operating on a timed basis.

Well I went and looked it up myself and every valve in the Kenmore line has a contact switch to turn the motor on/off and tell the computer where the rotor is in the regeneration or when it gets back to service. I suspect the same in the other Eco manufactured big box brands and Ecowater softeners.

Here are links showing a contact switch:
http://www.kenmorewater.com/website/...n/su_main.html

http://www.kenmorewater.com/website/.../ts_index.html

The Clack has no contact switches.

[Gary Slusser]

You've said that you don't like computers/electronics because of these problems. And because of humidity and salt air environments. I don't see the computer/electronics having anything to do with too much friction, bad seals or rotor. Or anything caused by salt or humidity.

If I unplug the softener during a regeneration and plug it back in and get an error code, it is a cheaply made and poorly designed system and it should not be compared to a Clack control. Clack does not have any of those parts or problems.

[Gary Slusser]

Yes big box brands are low quality and cheaply made with inferior materials, you are proving it in this thread. Clack is not, it has none of the problems you have mentioned.

If you recall correctly I showed you actual figures from Watts that were only days old that showed you that you couldn't buy the Clack for less than your Fleck 5600; they were identical, here it is again. Can you post something showing your prices (without freight)?

[Gary Slusser]

I don't buy from them, that's what they sent me as a quote. I should go look up the thread where I posted that before, I think you said you were buying from Watts.

Still you haven't shown any proof of problems with electronic valves caused by salt air environment and/or humidity.

[Gary Slusser]

IIRC when I posted the prices before, you said you were buying from Watts.Now you say you are buying from a dealer.

I'm being objective here trying to understand your negative comments about the Clack valve simply because it is electronic.

You have not shown any salt air, moisture or humidity caused problems yet, and now you are saying that because you can pay less for a Clack than a 5600, the Clack is cheaply made and lower quality. IMO that is a poor way to judge quality but help me out and give me the name and phone number of the dealer that sells the Clack WS-1 for less than a 5600.

Or include the info in that quote and post it by scrolling down the window you type your reply in to Manage Attachments and click on that button. Another window opens and click the top line's Browse button. Find the quote file on your computer, Click Save and then on the first pop up window, click the Upload button to the right of the Browse button you clicked on before, then when you see the name of the quote file in a new line under the the two lines with the Browse buttons as Attached, Close the window and when done replying, click the Submit Reply button as you always do.

[Gary Slusser]

OK if I'm reading it right, they are charging you $9 more but I don't see you making less money selling the 5600 with only a $9 difference.

You might shop around for a new supplier because I think you might be able to get a better price on the 5600. He is charging more than I've seen as long back as 5+ years ago. But that depends on your purchase volume. Maybe you'd do better if you bought valves by the case, 10' lengths of dist. tube material, some tanks etc. and assembled your units. I did that for 20 years. I guess you drive over to pick up your stuff, I didn't because the guy was 90 miles away and delivered to a number of us in the region.

Thank you too and you're welcome.