Well Info
* SE Michigan
* Bore is 8" x 70 feet
* Casing 5" x 70 feet
* 3 screens
* Static water level 20 feet below surface
* Pumping level 65 feet, 4 hrs at 2 GPM
* Well head completion - Pitless adapter
* ~1300 feet run to house through 1" tubing

Submersible Pump Info
* DEQ paperwork from 1999 says
* Red Jacket 3/4HP 220V 10GPM
* Actual (when looked at)
* F&W 1/2HP 220V 10GPM
* No separate check valve

Purchased house about 18 months ago. This last week had an issue with no water, when we went to the well we could see water squirting around and thought possibly the pitless adapter had come loose, tightening it did nothing so we pulled it all up and saw that the tube from the pump to the adapter came loose. We also took the time to look at the pump/motor and they were pretty corroded and beaten up. It is from Sept 1998 according to date on pump. We reattached the hose and dropped everything back into place and it is all working again.

However in our time tests to full pressure tank we have been noticing over the last several months that it is taking longer and longer to fill the pressure tank (new Well Mate installed 18 months ago) so we figure we might as well replace the pump/motor so as not to worry about it later.

The question is, should we go with a pump with the stats from the DEQ paperwork (3/4hp) or should we go with what we actually found there (1/2hp)? Also should a check valve be in placed above the pump?

As a bonus question, what are the thoughts on picking up say a 800-1200 gallon tank at tractor supply and having the water pump send the water there for storage and then have another pump to bring into the house from the storage tank? I think that may help out with issues when using a lot of water and the pressure tank going low and then taking awhile to fill back up.